...and i would want to clean it up and look into polishing it. Does anyone have any tips or a good tutorial that they can rely on?

I've never done this before but this is my spare manifold so id wanna experiment...

 

You are a courageous person as this is not an easy job. But as you are working on a spare manifold, no big problem. The biggest one however will be to get the parts to seal perfectly with no leaks. Before going any further, I would suggest to get all the parts into a special cleaning bath to get everything back to base metal.
Regarding DIY, I recall finding some threads on the MB forum. Do a search and you should dig out something. In all cases keep this thread alive as I'm sure plenty here want to hear how you get on

OK I did a quick search using the words M113+intake manifold and came across a great number of threads. I didn't look at them all but I highlighted the following as a starting point:
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...d-r-r-diy.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...oval-m113.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...rome-dome.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...-manifold.html

Now I'm recall that Saaboteur may have done this on his vehicle. Check the stuff he may have posted.

 

Hmmm intake velocity stacks!!!

 

Woo I remember a buddy polished the intake on a v46. Their manifolds are a bit smoother than our c43s. He took hours and hours to polish his. Its a long project but in the end you will have a nice looking engine! keep us posted if you take it on.

 

I had to pop my upper intake off to redo the RTV because I had some nasty vacuum leaks. There is a groove for sealant but no lip to help with the seal, so you need a pretty good sized bead or some other type of sealant.

 

Mercedes specifically does not recommend ever opening the intake up fyi. not saying it can't be sealed but it might lead to more problems then it is worth down the road.

 

Understood. On the other hand, sealing two pieces of magnesium is not rocket science and pierburg had to do it in the first place, so it must be possible.

 

Certainly possible as they are sealed fine from the factory. I was just offering up a warning.

I've read alot of people who have taken this apart to remove state they need to reseal again, etc. Have not seen a single one from the factory leak.

 

thats true. the material that they use is odd for sure and looks flimsy, but seems to do the job fine.

I think my problem was that i simply laid down too small a bead like if i was sealing a breather cover (that has a tongue and groove setup).

 

So far im having a hard time disassembling the internals but its cleaning up nice. Gonna soak it up with gas for some time and try again.

Ill post pictures later on

 

i would not dare touch the one off my engine, i need my car every day but hopefully i can clean up this one nice and use it because im gonna be obligated to do an engine swap soon and id want it to breed with full lungs

 

I can see why its deemed unserviceable by mb

Im in the same boat, my spare one is apart and has been through the wash tank. The issue now is to make a custom insert/nipple to replace the rubber hose which was perished. if you dissassemble fully you will notice the vaccum chamber and check valve it connects too running the length of the manifold under the butterflies,the plastic ends pull out so you can open this up for cleaning also,the pipe needs to slide onto this when the manifold is assembled.

Be carefull not to loose the small seal on the actuator arm if you remove for cleaning.

I'm not sure how important it is to get 100% seal betweent the runners?(some angled parts of this will be tough to reseal), but sealing between the upper and lower will be tricky even with factory grove as the sealant needs to rise above this evenly so you will need to be near perfect with a corking gun to avoid smearing it all through the inside of the plenum or creating a leak, its unfortunate there was no gasket made for this.

Also I note the sealant is not only applied around the grove when sealing the upper and lower but also between the runners/ports, I see some pics on the net where people have missed this,because there is no groove some of mine had come loose/dissapeared.

Post pics with how you get on, also what sealant you end up using.
I was thinking of using the regular black MB stuff but unsure as it doesnt like to go off when cramped into a confined space(groove) as apose to a machined surface.

 

I got one side split up after torching it a bit. It wasnt that bad honestly and i managed to do it without taking the aluminum pipe off.

Btw oven and grill cleaner does wonders on this. Sprayed on, left for 5 mins, used a paint brush to loosen up really dirty areas and small gaps, and rinsed off...

 

Just noticed that the bottom piece has cracks along the side where the screws go....

not sure how this could have happened on a manifold? Is this still usable? The inner side is all good and not damaged...

 

Magnesium is terrible stuff, same things happen to valve cover and rear end plate and makes for poor sealing on contact surface, that's why you replace the rear end cover with the seal always.

For the manifold I would say yes you can still use! =)

 

+1...

ZAYED,,

 

got mine to seal with a fat bead of rtv. no leaks.

did i get a fair amount of squeeze out, yes absolutely.

 

almost need some type of medium density bead/gasket that comes in a roll so you can lay it around the recess and just apply a small amount of rtv at the join!

Edit - possibly use a soft "Viton o-ring cord", has good synthetic oil resistance ?

"2)VITON O Ring Cord:
Good chemical resistance to mineral oils and greases, synthetic oils and greases,engine, transmission and ATF oils to approx. +150°C, fuels, non-flammable hydraulic pressure fluids HFD, aliphatic, aromatic and chlorinated hydrocarbons, water to max. +80°C, excellent resistance to weathering, ozone and ageing, very low gas permeability (and therefore excellent for vacuum application) and resistance to a wide range of chemicals."

 

Im stuck trying to remove the inner channels from the lower part of the manifold. (I broke the plastic fork that actuates the internal butterfly valves :/ ) How exactly did you get them apart? just apply a blow torch directly to one spot and then tried pulling it apart?

Ive tried hanging it in the the oven but the internals hoping it would separate under its own weight, but after 3 hours at 300 degrees it did nothing but smoke..

Any ideas?

 

Anyone have some good advice for how to remove the lower manifold's internals? I cannot seem to separate the channels from the actual manifold, and ive tried hanging it in the oven by its own weight thinking it'd separate under its own weight, but after 3 hours at 300 degrees i got nothing but smoke..

I broke the plastic fork that actuates the internal butterfly valves.. looks like im going to have to figure out a way to machine myself a new piece.. assuming i can get the internals out..

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I posted the method I used in this link

https://mbworld.org/forums/w210-amg/...fold-hose.html

It took quite a long time before it came loose. Others have mentioned their manifold almost falling apart by itself. I guess you and I are the lucky ones who got extra glue.

 

Yeah, it sure seems like it.. luck us! haha

Ill have to try a heat gun and the pry-bar method you used tomorrow. Lets pray that works, so i can get onto the larger problems!

Thanks for your fast response!!

 

Just take it easy and don't force anything too hard. Keep listening for the difference in sound where the glue is still bonding tight and work on those areas. Over time there will be less and less parts where the glue is sticking and eventually it will come apart.

 

I got it out! After I posted online I poured acetone into the manifold (about a kitchen cup) and wrapped it in surran wrap and let it sit outside. Woke up this morning and it was pretty warm from being outside in the sun. Couple whacks around the bottom with a mallet and it was able to get a screwdriver between them and pop them apart!

In some of my free time today I started working on making a replacement fork for the actuator. Its not pretty but should do better than factory when it's done. Ill post photos sometime this week when I finally get around to finishing it.

Honestly surprised that no one else has had issues with them breaking since such a brittle plastic component is exposed to so much fluctuation in temperature..

 

Im going to clean the intake on my m113. Should i split the manifold or should i just clean it from the "outside"?