Replace tandem ABC pump with ... ? power steering pump
I am replacing the ABC tandem pump with a regular power steering pump. I've read all the different forum entries, and the consensus seems to be using a PS pump from an S500/S430 without ABC. This would be part number 0024668601 .
Thing is, I have examined side-by-side several other MB power steering pumps from the same era (2001-2006). They all appear to be identical, except for the pulley mounts. That is, the pumps for the V6 motors and for E-Class, ML-Class, and smaller W220 like S280/etc appear to be identical, same bolt holes, same mounting, same hydraulic fittings. This would center around part numbers like 0034665401, 0034666401, 7692955535, 0034662601, 0034666001, 0044661401, 004466140188 etc.. I honestly can't find any difference except the pulleys (some use center-mount, others use 3-bolt like my 2003 CL500). It seems that any of these would bolt right up (if supplied with the 3-hole bracket).
Are there internal differences? Different line pressure? Any information most appreciated.
Edit 1: well, there is one question answered. The pumps that feature the 3-hole pulley flange will NOT work with our cars. The existing ABC pulley has indeed 3 holes, but is too deep to fit. There are no other 3-bolt pulleys readily available. The other pumps that feature center-mount pulleys not only always include the pulley (pressed on?), but also should align just fine.
Last edited by smartadze; Nov 28, 2017 at 04:49 PM.
When I completed the conversion, I discovered a quick-and-dirty way to retain the ABC pump but avoid all the leakage issues one encounters when simply plugging the ABC lines. See here https://mbworld.org/forums/cl-class-...ping-pump.html (see Post #23 at the end). I could drive that way forever if I wanted, but I'd like to get rid of the heavy pump and lines and truly put ABC in my past :-)
1. Pump selection
As I mentioned above, I examined several Mercedes power steering pumps side-by-side, and found few if any differences. I believe that any pump from our era (2000-2006) for E-Class, ML-Class, S-Class, or CL (before 2001, no ABC) will work just fine. I myself used a pump spec'ed for an E350. Just make sure that the pump you buy contains two critical parts: a fixed, center-mount pulley (as above, the 3-bolt-flange types will not work) and a 3-hole, triangular mounting bracket. (see photo). MOST pumps for sale do NOT include the bracket, even if the photos show it has one. You must inquire of the seller. There are several Chinese pumps on eBay for from $45 to $80. The upper end pumps are made by PAO Motoring, and are of very good quality. I had excellent results with one of these. For example, new PAO pump with bracket, Part Number 0024668601 (for S500).
2. Reservoir
It would have been nice to use the standard integrated pump reservoir for this era (Part # 0004600183). However, it is too wide to fit the front cover and I was unable to find another type that fit. I re-used my ABC tandem tank, power steering side only. Just use the hose from the ABC side of the tank (trim a little on both ends for best fit.).
3. ABC tandem pump removal
By far the hardest part due to inaccessibility of the rear bolts. I used this excellent guide http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c215...val-guide.html
but he says it takes 1.5 hours. Don't believe this! :-)
4. Power steering pump installation
A no-brainer once the tandem pump is out. Re-used the mounting bolts, and the belt lines up perfectly. The power-steering banjo fitting bolts right up. You must go underneath and remove the little bracket that holds the PS flex-line to the PS rack. Once removed, you can extend the line the extra 6 inches necessary to match the new pump. Re-secure the flex line with a zip-tie.
5. Removing other ABC components
You can go nuts or just trim away a few. After doing the pump re-circulation mod from "Remove ABC but keep the pump" it was easy to get out the two lines coming from the front accumulator, and the accumulator and block itself. One writer has insisted that only one bracket holds the primary ABC line that routes over the bell housing, whereas others have said that you must remove the engine or drop the sub-frame to get at this line. On my car (late-2003 CL500) there were at least 4 brackets that I could see but not reach, so I'd have to agree with the Others. I left that line in place.
Overall I am very pleased with the conversion. Much lighter (14 pounds!), more space, and less noise - for less than $100.
Last edited by smartadze; Aug 5, 2018 at 12:28 PM.
When I completed the conversion, I discovered a quick-and-dirty way to retain the ABC pump but avoid all the leakage issues one encounters when simply plugging the ABC lines. See here https://mbworld.org/forums/cl-class-...ping-pump.html (see Post #23 at the end). I could drive that way forever if I wanted, but I'd like to get rid of the heavy pump and lines and truly put ABC in my past :-)
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I'm not sure if the quick-fix line-re-route above is identical for all years of the 12-cylinder cars, but from what I've seen it should be. Replacing the V-12 tandem pump is another issue - one can modify a V-8 pump to work on a V-12, but it involves making spacers etc. Search the forums and you'll find several how-to's for replacing the V-12 tandem pump with a power-steering-only pump.
If it were me - and your existing tandem pump is still OK - I'd just re-route the lines (recirculate back trough the tandem pump) and not replace the pump.
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Now if it has Airmatic, then you do not have to address the PS pump.
Now if it has Airmatic, then you do not have to address the PS pump.
Now if it has Airmatic, then you do not have to address the PS pump.
Look at the Strutmasters videos...they deal with the pump issue.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REPLACE THE TANDEM PUMP IF YOU REMOVE THE ABC
JUST LOOP IT AND REMOVE THE LITTLE RADIATOR
KEEP FLUID FILLED
I posted this, just search the post and look
__________________________________________________ ______________________________
There are many versions and choices for DAS/Xentry Diagnostics for MB.
Ensure you have the right information before getting one. There is too much misleading info.
I’m a forum member and programmer who’s learned the hard way. PM me if you have any questions.
Last edited by pmercury; Jan 22, 2020 at 11:35 AM.
Now if it has Airmatic, then you do not have to address the PS pump.
My ABC side of the pump failed far before the P/s side failed. I actually ran my original strutmasters conversion using a blown Tandem pump, that still had functioning P/S. Eventually the p/s pump also blew
I do believe if I hadn't neglected the fluids/tandem pump, the power steering side of the tandem pump may have lasted many years. Unfortunately I was pretty careless with my tandem pump once it started acting irregular
1. Pump selection
As I mentioned above, I examined several Mercedes power steering pumps side-by-side, and found few if any differences. I believe that any pump from our era (2000-2006) for E-Class, ML-Class, S-Class, or CL (before 2001, no ABC) will work just fine. I myself used a pump spec'ed for an E350. Just make sure that the pump you buy contains two critical parts: a fixed, center-mount pulley (as above, the 3-bolt-flange types will not work) and a 3-hole, triangular mounting bracket. (see photo). MOST pumps for sale do NOT include the bracket, even if the photos show it has one. You must inquire of the seller. There are several Chinese pumps on eBay for from $45 to $80. The upper end pumps are made by PAO Motoring, and are of very good quality. I had excellent results with one of these. For example, new PAO pump with bracket, Part Number 0024668601 (for S500).
2. Reservoir
It would have been nice to use the standard integrated pump reservoir for this era (Part # 0004600183). However, it is too wide to fit the front cover and I was unable to find another type that fit. I re-used my ABC tandem tank, power steering side only. Just use the hose from the ABC side of the tank (trim a little on both ends for best fit.).
3. ABC tandem pump removal
By far the hardest part due to inaccessibility of the rear bolts. I used this excellent guide http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c215...val-guide.html
but he says it takes 1.5 hours. Don't believe this! :-)
4. Power steering pump installation
A no-brainer once the tandem pump is out. Re-used the mounting bolts, and the belt lines up perfectly. The power-steering banjo fitting bolts right up. You must go underneath and remove the little bracket that holds the PS flex-line to the PS rack. Once removed, you can extend the line the extra 6 inches necessary to match the new pump. Re-secure the flex line with a zip-tie.
5. Removing other ABC components
You can go nuts or just trim away a few. After doing the pump re-circulation mod from "Remove ABC but keep the pump" it was easy to get out the two lines coming from the front accumulator, and the accumulator and block itself. One writer has insisted that only one bracket holds the primary ABC line that routes over the bell housing, whereas others have said that you must remove the engine or drop the sub-frame to get at this line. On my car (late-2003 CL500) there were at least 4 brackets that I could see but not reach, so I'd have to agree with the Others. I left that line in place.
Overall I am very pleased with the conversion. Much lighter (14 pounds!), more space, and less noise - for less than $100.
Search for used part number 0024668601
Careful if you buy a new one, as it might not come with a reservoir or triangle bracket.
The high pressure steering hose needs to be about 4" longer, but I believe that loosening the first bracket down on the rack will give me that length... I'll know later tonight.
I also have a brand-new, never-installed, complete set of Strutmaster coil-overs that I will sell for $400 + shipping (probably about $110 to lower 48) to anyone on this forum. This kit consist of all four W215 coilover shocks, with 4 ABC plugs and brass caps. If you are just doing an ABC pump recirculation, this is all you will need and it is 1/2 the price of buying it directly from them. This kit does not include the light module. Just message me.
you should be able to have the steering hose reach the pump just fine
otherwise, all that’s neeeded is to swap the pulley from the m112 power steering pump over to a m113 steering pump
The S500 pump bolted right up BUT like a few others mentioned the hose to rack does not reach. It is short by about 5 inches and yes I did unhook the bracket and it pulled ahead about another inch but that's it. My biggest problem is the factory hose has a banjo fitting on the pump end but the S500 pump is a flare type fitting. The banjo bolt will screw into the fitting on the S500 bump but I wasn't sure if it would seal. Any advice, a link, any info would be much appreciated. Thanks !
As to the length of the PS pressure line, every one I have helped with had plenty of length. You must remove the rear-most belly pan and find the bracket that holds the line to the crossmember. When the line is freed, it has enough length to reach, to a banjo-type fitting anyway . Maybe this isn't true for all years and models.
Best of luck figuring this one out. For myself, I'd return or ditch the pump you have, and at least look at other applications and part numbers.
I wish strutmasters would honor their lifetime warranty. I really feel their kit is more safe than the yellowspeed kit, yellowspeed can get unpredictable at times. main issue with strutmasters was ride height and some body roll (mostly just an issue because of my 275/35/30 rear tires) but im sure with a swaybar and some length cut from the springs, strutmasters might still be the best ABC alternative for w215








