I've still got both the clips on mine but when my MAS finally arrives and I do the swap, I'm going to try and get a hose clamp on there (like I use for my Y) just to make it a little more solid - going to try to do the same with the MAS as well, I don't like the single clip. Just no damn room to work in there at all now with the supercharger jammed in there.

Never got a chance to touch the car this weekend, just home for one day & gone again...

 

Thanks for the input Blackbenz and Kevwood! Tech support on these klee cars can be limited, so appreciate the help.

I've got the following parts coming in so I'll do all this next weekend:
New elbow with all clips,
New elbos/MAS rubber seals,
New Primary O2 sensors,
New cabin filter,
New MAS,

Then hopefully LT Fuel Trims happy and then off to the track for some 1/4 miles times.



-----
side note.... looking at the klee manual and staring at my blower install.... removal of the blower housing looks pretty straightforward, thinking next mod will be remove blower, and have the blower inlet ported/polished, and modify the TB fulcrum rod (grind it down).
-----

 

Sounds like you got everything you need to get up and running again, sure looking forward to seeing your 1/4 times, that ride of yours is an absolute animal.

Side note, I got a email from the group I bought my catch can from, they are out of stock and refunding my money - if yours a segregated tank or open design? I'm doing a little research before ordering agin. Thx!

 

Kev, I ran my catch can with all three valve cover vents to the inlet of the catchcan, and the catch canoutlet to the tb vent inlet and elbow vent inlet.

Check on the E55K forums for the best routing. Mine might not be the best.

After running mine like this for 2 weeks I saw it filling up 1" of fluid which I thought was very clear syn oil..... emptied the can and it was condensation water..... note NOT coolant, and NOT oil. I was surprised to see this. So I took it off for now, as it does not appear my car is getting blow by visa-vie the valve cover vent system. Which surprised me.

So you might want to hold off on the catch can just yet. Let me know what you find out.


You're welcome to my catch can it's a perrin if you want it.

 

Funny I have to go the crossfire forum for low buck tech .... found this little dandy.... maxbore will bore your stock TB for low $$$$.... might be on the list of mods when I pull the blower to port the blower intake.

http://maxbore.com/

 

Kev - here is how to hook up the catch can..... I'll be hooking mine up this way too. Only drawing oily air from the small ports on the valve covers.

http://www.needswings.com/NeedsWings...Kit-slkcc.aspx

 

There was a thread over there where a member said Maxbore was no longer doing our MB TB's. Maxbore said they take too much time to do.

 

Anyone know P/N for this little t-fitting that goes on top of the Throttle Body?

I need to order a new one.

 

I set mine up differently on my track car back home. I looped the catch can in with the PCV line and just put little air filters/breathers on the valve cover ports. The actual vacuum line is the PCV line (behind the throttle plate) the valve cover ports are actually supposed to have the ability to draw air in completing the air cycle (I can't see it being different between Chevy and MB or anyone else for that matter) If I was going to run the valve cover lines in a vacuum state I would have a separate catch can for them as they do get a very slight vacuum in the OEM setup.

I'm sure that lots of guys run different setups but the way I set mine up worked great and the intake/valves stayed spotless after every season of hard track racing.

 

That's an excellent setup as well, kinda like what I said above, keeping the valve cover ports isolated from the PCV line.

 

Updated:

I rigged up a fuel press gage that I can see while driving, and a vac/boost gage I can see while driving.
I'm supposed to see 56 psi at idle, and up to 0psi manifold pressure.

What I'm seeing is 56psi at idle (17psi vac)..... then it holds 56psi to about 10psi vacuum, and starts climbing to 75psi @ 0psi boost or ambient.

So per below Klee fuel press reg adj instructions you're supposed to adjust the klee reg to compensate for this.

Well as it turns out I cannot dial back the reg screw far back enough with 0psi ref pressure to get fuel pressure below 75psi, so it apears my klee fuel press reg is not working right.

I also noticed the fuel pressure spiked to 100psi @ 8psi of boost right off idle. The cool part is this car makes 8psi at just about any rpm with the flick of the throttle.... pretty cool.

This part throttle rich cond is driving my fuel trims nuts. The fuel pressure is supposed to stay @ stock 56psi until you get into boost. This reg is raising fuel pressure at just over 10psi vacuum which is no good.

I'm going to take the klee regulator out and take it apart and inspect it. Per haps the disc or diaphram inside is hosed.

I also notice there is a pulsation in the fuel pressure up/down which I've seen from bad fuel press regulators jacking-up/down which is another symptom of the klee fuel press reg.

I'll order a new Klee Fuel Pres Reg from Cory and the guys next week.





=======from klee manual====
When adjusting the fuel regulator you have to fit a fuel pressure gauge to the end of the
fuel rail and observe pressure while adjusting in idle.
You then turn the little regulator screw clockwise until the fuel pressure starts to build up.
When pressure starts to increase rapidly you mark the setting of the screw and turn it 1
revolution counter clockwise. It is important that the pressure is able to build up when
turning clockwise.
( After it has been turned 1 revolution counter clockwise the pressure should be around
3.8 to 4.0 bars which is O.E Fuel pressure )
When road testing the installation check the fuel pressure again and make sure it only
starts to increase when driving with boost. Must not starts to build up pressure when
driving vacuum or atmospheric pressure. This is because it will make the O.E Engine
management system lean the engine because it will detect a rich mixture in partial load
and therefore begin to lean the fuel.

 

I had a quick question for you guys

I am looking into getting a smaller pulley and was wondering if you guys have any idea of what size would be good to run?
I am looking to up my boost but I dont want to go all out its still my daily driver and I need to be careful with what I do

also I still have a shifting problem I was told that changing my MAF sensor would do
Ahmad helped me out and changed it for me this past Friday while we were at the track at MIR but my shifting is still not right
can you guys verify this for me did your Kleemann kit come with a resistor for your MAF you will find a small black box in your fuse box with Kleemann on it. apperantly I dont have one and I want to know if the new Kleemann kit comes with out it because I was comparing my setup to Ahmads

 

"I am looking into getting a smaller pulley and was wondering if you guys have any idea of what size would be good to run?
I am looking to up my boost but I dont want to go all out its still my daily driver and I need to be careful with what I do"
** I was seeing 4-5psi after installing ported heads, so they put a smaller pulley on and now I'm at 8psi. My pulley measures about 2.75" at the ribbed section Diameter using my crude measurement techniques.




"also I still have a shifting problem I was told that changing my MAF sensor would do Ahmad helped me out and changed it for me this past Friday while we were at the track at MIR but my shifting is still not right
can you guys verify this for me did your Kleemann kit come with a resistor for your MAF you will find a small black box in your fuse box with Kleemann on it. apperantly I dont have one and I want to know if the new Kleemann kit comes with out it because I was comparing my setup to Ahmads"
**I do have the relay in the fuse box, but I'm pretty sure that is the relay for the h/e cooling pump. I imagine if they put a res in the MAS circuit it would be in the MAS wireloom bundle somewhere.

Shifting - My car only shifted poorly when my car came back from the original tuner with the cam installed a tooth off and they were never able to tune it in that condition. Once I got it back from Klee usa, no shifting issues.

 

Mine definitely has the adjustable resistor in line for the maf

 

Went ahead and bought a set of Autometer mech Vac/Boost and Fuel Pressure Gages that I can mount on my cowl just for track time and tuning runs.
You are piszzing in the wind with these cars without fuelpressure/boost/AFR data.

 

My Kleemann package did install a resistor for the MAF, which fools it into seeing a cetain amount of air coming in. It is in a little black box. Not sure on your year model however. Corry may be the right person to call at Kleemann.

 

I need some more power and thus some advise. Can I get a larger throttlebody without doing other mods to accomodate for it? Is there really any advantage from removing the last cats and replacing with 300 cell cats? Can I run a small pully with any difference?

 

Per this klee install manual, you should be able to measure the voltage of the mass air wire (see color in attachment) and make sure it does not go over 4.85 volts. You should be able to track down the resistor on that mass air wire.

From my mustang days the res is added to ensure you do not peg the MASS AIR METER... if the air flow amount exceeds the factory pre-set tune in the mass air meter it will go out of range or exceed 5volts.... which could lead to lean condition and engine damage. I'm surprised there is not a performance aftermarket MASS AIR METER for our cars tuned for add'l HP rather than using the res trick. But heh it works.



http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...V8%20ver.2.pdf

====

Ashutt - once I get my fmu issues resolved, I'll track my car.... then next round of mods will include porting my stock TB, and possibly porting the klee s/c inlet.
I removed the fins from the 90 elbow above the TB and ported/sanded it down to 400 grit when I had the MAS last time.

For you: smaller pulley and tune might yield some gains.... but I'd be carefull with stock pistons and pump gas. I was able to (actually had to go with) a smalle pulley because my p/p heads actually dropped my boost pressure due to the drop in restriction of air flow.

Once I'm back up and running I'll do some more runs noting max boost pressure in this very cold texas weather. I saw 8psi very quickly at just about any rpm..... I'm not used to seeing this much boost just off idle.... my old centrifugal days you had to have rpm's to build boost... not the case with the eaton.

 

So verified my injectors are indeed the stock CLK55 injectors with p/n below:
0280156074 259 cc/hr
====
And yet another source showing these same inj flow 27#/hr @ 3 bar or 43.5psi.
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

 

FMU checks out.
Disregard the info about about adj the FMU.... turns out that klee manual is outdated.
You basically set the current klee fmu by adj fuel pressure @ 0psi ref pressure, and set fuel pressure to 72psi @ 0psi ref pressure. The mech rise rate is fixed in the FMU. No further adjustment.

I'll log some miles, and find someone local with STAR to see under what load conditions I'm getting fuel trim out of range.

 

I'm getting a laptop and star to diagnose this issue.

 

What exhaust set up are you running again?

 

Exh Setup on my ride:
Klee mid-length headers with downpipes
No prim cats
300 cel 2ndary cats
single exhaust
Added a 3" Dia / 9" long resonator to quiet things down and get rid of rasp
Stock AMG single MUFF.

 

Any pictures? What cats did you go with?

Thanks.

 

The cats are the ebay 300 cell cats metal matrix. They are pretty cheap like $90 shipped.

No pics of exhaust, mine is NOT photo-worthy. If you want to see a sexy exhaust check out PTE's thread for his dual exhaust. SOOOO FINE!