Gents,

Someday you guys will need this.
A member asked me why he could not find WIS for M276.9 engine oil cooler removal procedure.

There is no WIS for M276.9 3.5NA engine for engine oil cooler replacement. Only bolt tightening torque at 8Nm. .




None for M276.9 3.5NA engine...........





I am attaching M276.8 3.0TT WIS for engine oil cooler and other supporting documents linked to it, as if it were M276.9 3.5NA


But you guys are lucky, this MB Tech in Dubai had a full video for your M276.9 engine engine oil cooler removal and he does not follow WIS a 100%.


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Yep, same pain in the azz but less pain than my pain on M276.8 3.0TT because I have a turbocharge blocking the work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...r-painful.html

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Visualization for M276.9 3.5NA below

Photos from : https://www.ebay.com/itm/16579112748...3ABFBMxJP3wuZl





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The hiding cavity at engine mount bracket for the oil cooler


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Enjoy your preventive maintenance.....

 

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you !

 

8Nm tight...
That's two fingers tight!

Why not 25Nm?
What is Mercedes up to here??

Is this a setup for mayo-mixer...
or why so loose ??

 

What do think about his hack to support the block from underneath?

9 min 25 sec

 

that's what every DIY'er without a lift does including myself.
Use a piece of wood between the jack and pan bottom: no problem.
The oil pan is not genuine plastic like lighter BMW's...

What amazes me is how well built this is.
The heat exchanger fails
with oil in coolant (dirty radiator)
instead of coolant in oil (dead engine).

 

If your oil pan is this type, it is quite thick.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MB-2760106507

Perhaps if you want to be safer, add those low cost engine support bar as back up and share the load.


But me I already made in advance my own engine hoist, because I do not like what are available on the market and I wont buy MB reccomended one too expensive.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8868054

I do not like loading my car for 250kg worth of engine load ( estimated ) at area not meant to carry load.

 

How about supporting the forward part of the transmission just below the torque converter access ?

 

Yikes! after replacing the oil cooler on the NA V6 last month it made that like child's play compare to the TT engine. Another good reason why to keep the NA engine. Oh wait I will have the same problem with my GLE43! Mental and wallet preparedness for this for a dealer fix is now required.

 

Dont support too far off the center of gravity of the engine itself.
You get like a crow-bar effect. Not good for the engine to tranny bell housing interface.

I am not familiar with 4 matic oil pan and front subframe/carrier overall placement on the car itself.

Any photo of your under carriage like mine below ?

 

You mean by NA V6 is the M272 right ? M276 3.5NA is a nightmare too
Lucky you , that 272 is oil cooler replacement friendly

 

Yes on the M272. On the Bi-turbo engine only way to see if this thing is leaking is to go under the car and remove the skirts correct? I don't see anyway to find out from the top based on those pics.

 

If only to see, you can from top side


Remove air filter intake square pipe like below, you can peek and see like above photo.
My HVAC hose to compressor is very thickly insulated, yours is not, better view you will get

 

Why did you put insulator on that hvac hose? Was there any after effects upon doing that? I like the tape date on the oil filter cap. I do the same. On anything I replace in the car I either sharpie the date and kilometers when it was replaced so that after months and years when I see it I do know the age of those items. Another question for you. What is that thick, orange cable running across your engine compartment?

 

The orange wire is a welding wire, as extra negative cable ( ground ) direct to alternator frame and MB ground closest to alternator.
I could not get black color...LOL.

The insulator for suction hose of AC compressor does help a bit in bad traffic jam. Keep the hose less hot, thus compressor heat load reduced.

Want to see more date labels : ?

Reminder, max 3 years for tranny and DIFF oil.
Brake fluid, 2 years, typical.


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Not all I replaced has dates, but their gang member ( group) has date, so easy to remember.

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The hoses to firewall, I don't date them but they are 10-11 years max use for me even only at 40,000KM, thus renewed last year.
Thermostat and all coolant handling plastic pipe or fittings and rubber hoses.


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Your C43 will need this to be replaced :



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Above is NOT fun to do. This pipe connects Bank 1 and Bank2 coolant output and feed it to thermostat. The item is below



A lot more............................. others I replaced.



The most hidden label, but me often goes under the car :


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LOL! now talk about labels! that is a lot of parts been replaced. I see you are in Indonesia (hot hot). Weather and road condition there plays a big part to the wear and tear on the parts. I still don't understand why add another orange ground wire. Why do that? The GLE43 is still too young to get the thermostat replaced. The magic number for me is 60k on any MB cars as I had my other MB cars fail at around 65-70k (stuck open). How often do you change coolant there? I have friends in the tropics that has 42-48 degrees everyday temp and they tend to replace coolant every 2-3 years.

 

The MB W212 ground wire for chassis to engine is a bit small and it is not documented, you can't find it in WIS.
It is close the left side exhaust CAT.
Thus I prepare the back up. . Can't get black color welding wire, only orange....thus orange it is then.

Coolant I replace every 5 years, but at 10th year or less, I replace the coolant recovery bottle.
That bottle contains the addetive "mini-*****" for the coolant. That is why MB has the ba-lls to advice coolant is to last 10+ years.

I don't wait for issues on the car, let alone DTC. Hoses and plastic and thermostat are all preventive 10th year refresh plan.
I like my car feeling like new and and anything supporting flow and handling of coolant, engine oil, tranny oil and brake fluid and fuel , 10 years is good to go, latest 12 years.
That is why I am in a big headache for oil cooler gasket planned to be done this year, seems like turbocharger has to be removed as per WIS.

My biggest headache is the 2 hidden o-rings at timing case cover which carry over coolant to coolant pump and crossing over timing chain region, oil bath region.
Milk shake will happen when these two o-rings get tired and it will get tired. I think by 15th year it will already be a liability.

This two o-rings : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...r-replace.html

Another o-ring you should watch out for, is the oil suction pipe/baffle o-ring and probably the oil suction pipe baffle plastic itself.
I just posted today : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...0-p054c00.html
I would say they won't last more than 15 years and stilll in 100% working condition aka zero air suction leak.
Cheap stuff, but replacing them is no fun.

I am keeping my car to at least 20th year. Thus 10th to 12th year is good mid-ownership refresh.
This way I can WOT my engine without worrying ..........

Hot + humid tropical countries do tend to destroy plastic and rubber faster than cooler and lower humidity countries, this is true.
Even the sunlight UV is strong here.

Somethings I just have to swallow due to humidity and age........... like below :


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So, how is your progress ?

 

Parts are in transit. Replacing the HEX, gasket, and both mounts [might as well since the left mount needs to be removed for A/C compressor bolt access].

Did some recon last weekend and discovered that the left engine mount is missing the M8 bolt on the rear attach point

Does anyone know what the rust colored object is ? Looks like the end of a bolt threaded from the other side .




Here is the fwd bolt

 

The engine mount 2 lower bolts goes from subframe to engine mount, the M8 hex head is visible from under the car.



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C class, but the same design as W212


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But only one bolt is securing my engine mount.
Seems that the bolt from other side is too long ?

 

the only way to secure the engine mount to the chassis is from the top side.
There are no threads in the engine mount holes

 

There are no threads in the engine mount holes

Are you sure ?

A2122403217 Engine Support

Photo not too great a detail......



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I don't think MB change the method of M8 securing the engine mount, even if yours is 4 matic.

Mine and W204, the same.

 

Ooops, if indeed the P/N is correct as per EPC and this ebay listing, it does look like smooth no female thread


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/127115614601

 

However, my engine mount is secured from the top side.

The right engine mount shows two bolt heads installed from top - not from under sub frame
The left engine mount shows one bolt head in the front and one missing bolt in the back. In other words, there was only one bolt securing the left engine mount to the chassis.

 

Ohh, so your 4 matic front subframe has female thread built in ? Or using stand alone female nut ?