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I am having issues with my defroster blowing a very small amount of warm air through the front defroster (#3 from the below picture).
Spoiler
On my code scanner, I have the codes B1204/B1206 for the defroster and rear shutoff flap positioning motor. B1206 is stored and current and B1204 is just stored. Can someone help provide some direction for troubleshooting this? Should I be checking the levers on the motors? I attached the codes I pulled from the module. Please let me know if I should clarify anything. My VIN is 4JGAB57E63A405447
The first thing you must do is call your M/B dealer and ask if the parts are still available. If so, then proceed with removable instructions and see if the lever is broken, if not then you must purchase the actuator motor.
Remove the cover below the instrument panel and look up and to the right where all of the actuator motors are. Follow the instructions in the PDF's.
I pulled the defroster motor out and it looks like the control lever (96) is broken where it seats on the motor. I inspected the motor while trying the defroster and it moves the defroster flap almost until it is wide open and then it looks like it slips and makes a "thud" noise as the defroster flap shuts. The motor then moves back to its original position. I think that the motor is still good based on these observations, just need to replace the control lever. Do I need to have the motor reindexed after installing a new lever or should it be ok?
Awesome, thank you. I got the lever ordered from the dealership. While I was down there, I saw what looked like oil on the mounting bracket for the TCU. I read that ATF oil can wick up the cable from the transmission to make it to the footwell. I was also reading that it could be coolant, but I don't think it is because I have M/B blue coolant and the oil/liquid looked really yellow/green. I used to have the yellow coolant, but if it was leaking I think it should have blue coolant on it now. (It has been a year since the last coolant change).
I installed the part and it is fixed! I uploaded a side by side comparison of the old and new part. Not sure was the tan stuff is, grease? Thanks for all the help Maj. Dundee.
I installed the part and it is fixed! I uploaded a side by side comparison of the old and new part. Not sure was the tan stuff is, grease? Thanks for all the help Maj. Dundee.
One day while randomly driving with AC blowing cold air it slowly turned to warm/hot air within a minute or 2 , temp set to 60 but not getting cold . Plugged in my Icarsoft code reader & I’m getting code B1204 & B1206 .I’m assuming a flap is stuck closed or open causing this ?? I believe my ref pressure was 16 bar . Anyone else have this issue ?
One day while randomly driving with AC blowing cold air it slowly turned to warm/hot air within a minute or 2 , temp set to 60 but not getting cold . Plugged in my Icarsoft code reader & I’m getting code B1204 & B1206 .I’m assuming a flap is stuck closed or open causing this ?? I believe my ref pressure was 16 bar . Anyone else have this issue ?
( One day while driving with 60 seconds I was getting only hot air . First thing I did was plug in my icarsoft code reader & according to it I had two codes B1204/1206 .so i took the vehicle in to someone I know who manages all the jiffy lubes in my area to test for leaks ( none ) & recharged it but after the recharge it did not fix my issue & they couldn’t pinpoint it exactly so I was not charged any money , so I went to another shop for second opinion & peace of mind and paid them for a diagnostic fee and they said i had a bad AC expansion valve & AC compressor. So I went & bought them myself from autozone & it took me 2 hours to replace both parts in my driveway . Then drove it back to jiffy lube for a full vac test & recharge BOOM 💥 better than ever & the Air was cool & crisp ⛄️ . I wish I knew what to look for when diagnosing a bad ac compressor or valve so I can save myself some coin next time But I can say I no longer have that awful noise that sounded like a bad power steering pump whine / grinding . Turns out it was definitely the bad AC compressor & maybe even the clutch on it because that ulgy noise it gone ! . ( still have codes B1204/1206 & it seems the rear air vents are as crisp at the front … i usually drive with the rear Turned off but after testing the values of the vents with my Icarsoft i noticed the air was not crisp . so looking into that still .. other then that all front vents are super cold 🙏
Total cost $917
- Vac leak test / full Recharge $135
- diagnostic $209
- denso compressor $501
- four season’s Expansion valve $72
11-13-2021, 01:13 AM
