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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
@streborx ya gotta wonder if regulating the load on the alternator by the ECU isn't another effort to get a couple more inches per gallon of fuel efficiency (forget miles per gallon improvements).
This has been a very interesting thread, and I wanted to pursue it from the alternator inside, rather than from the alternator outside. Turns out there are alternator regulator devices such as NXP's AR6000LF that perform the traditional voltage regulation task to charge the battery, but also provide a LIN bus connection to the ECU. This regulator is capable of doing its battery charging task without interference from the ECU, but the ECU has the ability to alter the regulator's behavior (its "Load Response Control", or LRC) in a variety of (and likely nefarious) ways. Disconnecting the LIN puts the regulator into a default mode, which seems to be entirely OK (and according to the many posts above, improves performance). When under LIN control, the ECU can change the battery charging voltage as a function of alternator RPM (engine RPM) and electrical load demand on the battery, for whatever end purpose this might provide under the circumstances. For a real headache, technical specs can be reviewed at https://www.nxp.com/products/power-m...ith-lin:AR6000.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Just got back from a short trip about 15 miles each way with the SL, and something is a little whacky. I can be moving around 15-20 mph and give it some gas and the rear end breaks loose. Never did that before. And this was on a dry road. Up and down shifts are still smooth. The throttle just seems more responsive. It wasn't like this the first time out, but seems to be steadily improving. My only concern is that I look a little reckless when merging into traffic. I may have to keep the car in E mode for normal driving.
Just got back from a short trip about 15 miles each way with the SL, and something is a little whacky. I can be moving around 15-20 mph and give it some gas and the rear end breaks loose. Never did that before. And this was on a dry road. Up and down shifts are still smooth. The throttle just seems more responsive. It wasn't like this the first time out, but seems to be steadily improving. My only concern is that I look a little reckless when merging into traffic. I may have to keep the car in E mode for normal driving.
The car does seem to still be adapting and I guess your tune also affected it.
Just got back from a short trip about 15 miles each way with the SL, and something is a little whacky. I can be moving around 15-20 mph and give it some gas and the rear end breaks loose. Never did that before. And this was on a dry road. Up and down shifts are still smooth. The throttle just seems more responsive. It wasn't like this the first time out, but seems to be steadily improving. My only concern is that I look a little reckless when merging into traffic. I may have to keep the car in E mode for normal driving.
i guess you were on S mode and now throttle is responsive as it should? which is very good and here comes helpful the diff modes, because i drive only on S for normal driving and S+..
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
The car does seem to still be adapting and I guess your tune also affected it.
I have both a tune and a tranny configuration by BenzNinja, adding Agility/S+ and throttle tweaking. For now, I normally drive in S mode. Agility may be too aggressive.
I know all of this may sound silly because the stock SL550 is just a little more hp than my tuned car. However, I am a couple hundred pounds lighter (since I added Ozempic®to my gas). (<---That's a joke.)
I have both a tune and a tranny configuration by BenzNinja, adding Agility/S+ and throttle tweaking. For now, I normally drive in S mode. Agility may be too aggressive.
I know all of this may sound silly because the stock SL550 is just a little more hp than my tuned car. However, I am a couple hundred pounds lighter (since I added Ozempic®to my gas). (<---That's a joke.)
by "agility S+" + throttle tweaking is that means you are opening more the throttle body based on less pressing the throttle pedal or something else?
I remember my car was impossible to be driven in the city in S+ (stage 2) up to 3rd gear as the car was crazy crazy jumping when you touch a little the gas (not anymore with latest updates from MB and my old "new" stage 2 on top of the updates..)
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by kistiyanpetrov
by "agility S+" + throttle tweaking is that means you are opening more the throttle body based on less pressing the throttle pedal or something else?
Tweaking the throttle is what BenzNinja includes in his tranny "mod". I do disagree with his statement that Agility "is a happy medium between E and S." I find the Agility mode to be the most aggressive, more than Sport.
Tweaking the throttle is what BenzNinja includes in his tranny "mod". I do disagree with his statement that Agility "is a happy medium between E and S." I find the Agility mode to be the most aggressive, more than Sport.
hmm, interesting, why im thinking is something to do with the throttle body how open to be at what % of the pressed gas (but not sure either if that's possible at all when you're not stock and your ecu file is most probably locked), because i think you can adjust throttle body when you're tuned only if the file is unlocked..?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by kistiyanpetrov
hmm, interesting, why im thinking is something to do with the throttle body how open to be at what % of the pressed gas (but not sure either if that's possible at all when you're not stock and your ecu file is most probably locked), because i think you can adjust throttle body when you're tuned only if the file is unlocked..?
I'm pretty sure you can make adjustments (search YouTube) to the throttle settings, I just don't know what they are or how to do it.
I'm pretty sure you can make adjustments (search YouTube) to the throttle settings, I just don't know what they are or how to do it.
the best one to adjust the throttle body module is the ECU!
Don't screw with it.
The different setup files are to match specs to engine types and performances. The throttle work is expected by the ECU setup.
It's like tempering with injector size or timings... the lambda measures the combustions regardless!!
That why it's best to IMPROVE conditions that please ECU.
A tune on top of sealed engine with good ignition maybe super impressive on TT.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 22, 2025 at 08:16 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I've been driving both cars the last couple of days and am becoming more excited each time. I've seen great improvements in both cars, but the C350 is showing the most. I've always thought that the C350 feels a little more nimble than the SL, but they are different cars, so duh 💡! With the renewed responsiveness from the NA M276, I'm actually wanting to give it equal time. It feels more torquey with absolutely no turbo lag (because there is no turbo). Don't get me wrong, the SL with the turbos is amazing. It's just nice to mix it up a bit.
I've been driving both cars the last couple of days and am becoming more excited each time.
I've seen great improvements in both cars, but the C350 is showing the most. I've always thought that the C350 feels a little more nimble than the SL, but they are different cars, so duh 💡!
With the renewed responsiveness from the NA M276, I'm actually wanting to give it equal time. It feels more torquey with absolutely no turbo lag (because there is no turbo).
Don't get me wrong, the SL with the turbos is amazing. It's just nice to mix it up a bit.
JR! only you have the pulse of both sides of the game:
NA vs. TT.
What we managed to cancel on NA also sucks on TT side as well but the ECU responds differently.
I think the best we can do is rev'up towards turbo Rpm with a neutral map.
The stock setup ensures engine is weak then slaps boost on top...
I believe a neutral stoichiometric map from good engine conditions beats hot/weak/lean/laggy response until throttle opens up yo WOT: the turbo rush!!
The difference is the accelerator response.
It makes the engine climb into Rpm.
Pedal stays responsive when gas is matching, it gets spongy in lean/weak/poor fuel area.
With the above you can tell what's going on.
> When pedal is pressure sensitive your map is neutral naturally enriched by demand.
> When pedal gets soft your map is lean in laggy mud.
You can suspect dirty lambda if you know engine is burning quarts of vaporized oil.
> GDI NA vs. TT:
what's nice with 2500Psi fuel injection is power is the ECU had the power to directly burn well rich mixture without waiting for higher Rpm.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 22, 2025 at 11:27 PM.
I have both a tune and a tranny configuration by BenzNinja, adding Agility/S+ and throttle tweaking. For now, I normally drive in S mode. Agility may be too aggressive.
I know all of this may sound silly because the stock SL550 is just a little more hp than my tuned car. However, I am a couple hundred pounds lighter (since I added Ozempic®to my gas). (<---That's a joke.)
Ah that is awesome : ) Glad to hear Peter helped further improved your experience.
I've been driving both cars the last couple of days and am becoming more excited each time. I've seen great improvements in both cars, but the C350 is showing the most. I've always thought that the C350 feels a little more nimble than the SL, but they are different cars, so duh 💡! With the renewed responsiveness from the NA M276, I'm actually wanting to give it equal time. It feels more torquey with absolutely no turbo lag (because there is no turbo). Don't get me wrong, the SL with the turbos is amazing. It's just nice to mix it up a bit.
Different personality, different weight, different intended purpose but same goal, brings you joy! Enjoy the two versions of M276!
This reply is from an oil MOD thread question by @QuadTurboPrius
Originally Posted by QuadTurboPrius
Thanks!
I see these steps:
Disconnect Batt GND at brass stud + AUX GND (Reboot step1)
Unplug ALT-LIN!
CTEK float Batt on "AGM setting" while unplugged
Reconnect Batt Main/Aux (Reboot step2)
Set IC to display shop menu: Volt/Amp: 14.15Volts /1Amp.
> A few questions :
-- Steps 1 + 4 : does this mean I need to do something to cause reboot
or does this mean it will cause a reboot due to the step?
-- Step 3 : What is "CTEK float Batt"?
Answer 1: yes, you got it. These steps will effectively power cycle (reboot) your chassis computers-on-wheel machine.
Answer 2: "CTEK float battery ":
-- CTEK is a brand of smart battery charger used by top cars. It has a AGM setting with elevated voltage maintenance mode...
-- Battery float is the maintenance step of fully charging a battery and rebalancing its individual cells for lowest internal resistance like new.
>> I am recommending to use "CTEK AGM Mode" only while batt is out of circuit during the disconnected reboot steps.
> WHY these steps?
All these steps are incremental. They add to each other It's like combining oil change + oil filter :
-- REBOOT step is to sanitize the CGW Module that's ALWAYS RUNNING NON-STOP 24/7.
-- FLOAT is to optimize the dynamic voltage. The nature of these cars make them sensitive to glitches and riples. When battery acts like a giant capacitor, we win!
>> HANDS ON FUN..:
-- You'd be right to think that with ALT powering the chassis on a fixed 14V, the battery is more than well charge, right?
That's were fun can be had...
These cars are seriously voltage sensitive, they are impedance sensitive.
Doing an "CTEK AGM FLOAT" is going to make a noticeable difference in throttle response (at least at this stage in early ALT-LIN).
Do that once a month or when convenient furing oil change.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 23, 2025 at 03:27 PM.
This reply is from an oil MOD thread question by @QuadTurboPrius
Answer 1: yes, you got it. These steps will effectively power cycle (reboot) your chassis computers-on-wheel machine.
Answer 2: "CTEK float battery ":
-- CTEK is a brand of smart battery charger used by top cars. It has a AGM setting with elevated voltage maintenance mode...
-- Battery float is the maintenance step of fully charging a battery and rebalancing its individual cells for lowest internal resistance like new.
>> I am recommending to use "CTEK AGM Mode" only while batt is out of circuit during the disconnected reboot steps.
> WHY these steps?
All these steps are incremental. They add to each other It's like combining oil change + oil filter :
-- REBOOT step is to sanitize the CGW Module that's ALWAYS RUNNING NON-STOP 24/7.
-- FLOAT is to optimize the dynamic voltage. The nature of these cars make them sensitive to glitches and riples. When battery acts like a giant capacitor, we win!
>> HANDS ON FUN..:
-- You'd be right to think that with ALT powering the chassis on a fixed 14V, the battery is more than well charge, right?
That's were fun can be had...
These cars are seriously voltage sensitive, they are impedance sensitive.
Doing an "CTEK AGM FLOAT" is going to make a noticeable difference in throttle response (at least at this stage in early ALT-LIN).
Do that once a month or when convenient furing oil change.
I just replaced my battery maybe less than 2 months ago. Wonder if float process still is required then? It is very new battery.
ALso if we were to do this does it mean we need to disconnect both positive and negative terminals (Out of circuit means this I think). And then connect the Ctek device and do agm mode?
Just learning along the way. Thanks for the insight as always!
I just replaced my battery maybe less than 2 months ago. It is very new battery.
Wonder if float process still is required then?
Also if we were to do this does it mean we need to disconnect both positive and negative terminals (Out of circuit means this I think).
And then connect the CTEK device and do "AGM mode"?
Just learning along the way. Thanks for the insight as always!
YES, you got the overall procedure.
Your battery is young but it has worked. I am sure doing a float charge with "AGM setting" while out of circuit will be noticeable at this stage.
This is best combined with reboot procedure when battery is out of circuit with only (-)/GND side disconnected.
Let me cut and paste the procedure here....
Disconnect Batt GND at brass stud AND the AUX GND.
Unplug ALT-LIN <<<<<<
Float Battery CTEK "AGM setting" while unplugged
Reconnect Batt Main/Aux
Set display using IC "shop menu" Volt/Amp: 14.15Volts /1Amp.
I acknowledge the FLOAT + REBOOT steps should not be a big deal yet they are noticeable.
Test drive before and after to confirm you notice throttle improvements of Float + Reboot.
When "float+Reboot " is done without ALT-LIN (active stock voltage swings) you will notice improvements decrease over 10 days and chassis response becomes moody again.
Meaning the WHOLE COMBINATION AT ONCE IS BEST.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 23, 2025 at 05:58 PM.
day 2 only ALT_LIN: car seems to have a bit louder sound i guess because of the better mixture or idk, tranny is adapting yet but have a positive improvement but in the meantime i notice 3-4l increase of fuel consumption on completely normal driving with my family (i just pay attention on it when i drive with my family really peaceful to see what consumption it gives me), it might be due the adaptation process or that i didn't yet make the "float/reboot" step as well (today im planning to do this as well)
@CaliBenzDriver since in our w205 our AUX is just with an single plug (no GND/POSITIVE terminals) i guess your AUX step with disconnect GND we replicate it via unplug the AUX for 15min
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
Great to see you guys enjoying ALT-LIN disconnect
@S-Prihadi back in the early 70s, there was a Life Cereal commercial of three brothers at the breakfast table. Apparently, a new breakfast cereal (Life Cereal) was being served, but the older brothers didn't trust that it would be any good. So they give it to their youngest brother Mikey. If he liked it, then they would like it.
Well, you're my Mikey! If you do something and it works, then I'll do it.
Maybe this should be your new profile avatar!
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 24, 2025 at 07:55 AM.
I joined the ALT-LIN un-plug crew a few days ago. I have a cigarette lighter voltage plug and voltage is running at 14.12 constantly when the car is at idle. I turned on multiple accessories (i.e. heated seats, fan blower on high, neck warmer blower, headlights) and the voltage was running at 14.12 - 14.20. It never fluctuated from this. I do not know how to get the amperage to show in the Shop Menu, so can't comment on this yet. I haven't been able to drive the car to date, but the idle seems very smooth and the short revs seem very responsive. Looking forward to a test drive this weekend. I just wanted to say thanks to everybody that has contributed to this thread. It has been very informative and quite the learning process. My 2014 SL 550 with the M278 is back to loving me again !
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
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