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Actually, it might be better to list Viscosity as Level 1 Mod, Oil Solenoid as Level X.1, and ALT-LIN as X.X.1.
For example, 5W-50 with Oil Solenoid Disconnected and ALT-LIN disconnected would be MOD-4.1.1 and 5W-40 with only the ALT-LIN disconnected would be MOD-3.0.1,
or something like that since they are not dependent on each other.
JR! too many details can be overwhelming, right?
For the sake of simplicity, we should keep oil MOD options separate from 12Volt ALT-LIN .
> How about this:
"Do ALT-LIN before or after MOD-n of your choice".
- best case this will enhance MOD timings
- worse case timings won't improve one bit
The key choice is to select the lubricant you want according to personal preferences - Stock is fine :
MB Approved/Unapproved
Mobil, Motul, Shell...
W30; w40; w50
The results are based on your personal choice.
I am enjoying Motul 5W50 : not too thick, no too thin.
Many other good ester oils.
+++++ LOWER FEARS FROM PREVENTION...:
-We should note what destroys engines: forcing power out of unbalanced cylinders.
(Tear downs from "I do car" Erik's channel)
-- Catastrophic damage can be prevented with good clean oil and viable bearings sharing crankshaft forces.
-- Contaminated oil starts a reaction that end up spinning soft bearings on the last run.
--Meaning its not "unapproved oil" that's going to blow the engine, it's abuse combined with 10kMi neglect.
-- Helping balance cylinders is thought to be a protective factor... paradoxally this is not done with Approved oil.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 22, 2025 at 07:35 PM.
how about if i reset ECU/TCU adaptations and start learning from scratch, is this not a better and quick process than rewriting slowly old data till create the new adaptation?
mmm last time MB put instead 5/40, 0/40 and we talked that i will forget how much they robbed me for this oil and will go for 5/40 before even 5k km range, so now im with 5/40 from here would it be safe to jump next to 5/50 so by summer i can go to 10/50 or what would you suggest me in my specific situation?
I think the best is to begin by running a Motul 5w40 because it has a high temp stable Ester viscosity that will begin to clean your cooler piston rings above 2000Rpm.
Or try a 10w40 or 15w40 as an intermediate step.
This oil will let you begin to experience the engine moody transformation.
> AVOID to Skip Ahead:
-- Clearly we're trying to avoid switching a powerful unbalanced TT engine to 10w50 and WOT it into pieces. That's what Master Tasos rebuilds all day long...
The ECU does help balance cylinders with tailored multi-shot injection given the right conditions.
It's common knowledge not to open up on a cold engine, right? Add to that unbalanced cylinders too!!
This puts too much stress on too few bearings.
Experimental does not mean wreckless
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 22, 2025 at 07:26 PM.
BTW you, JR!, WCP! and myself are all members of the bad-back-pain club - We need more Cancun scuba diving [/QUOTE]
Well, I cannot scuba (pressurizing issue!) but I sail and snorkel in Caribbean every January…so sign me up too sorta! I’ll drive the boat anyways haha! There is rumor of sailing trip in Thailand in 2026 too!
re viscosity, my e63s sure loves the 5w50. I will not use anything less for the rest of its days/miles
@CaliBenzDriver so would you agree that "golden mean" is right around:
Oil pump solenoid - unplugged
ALT-LIN - unplugged
Engine oil - Motul 5/40 or 5/50?
since you are NA why would you pick 10/50 if you're happy enough with the heat already
Originally Posted by JCM_MB
Cali is a perfectionist, and so is Master Surya.
to both
Yup, that is right : ) There is no such thing as the best, only better
I too please allow me to express my gratitude to them both as well
JC! many-many thanks to you as well for everything you bring to this forum.
Your excellent Motul 5w40 recommendation was my preview for what stable viscosity delivers.
BTW you, JR!, WCP! and myself are all members of the bad-back-pain club - We need more Cancun scuba diving
Honestly, we couldn't have enjoyed our cars or find the true potential of our cars without each and everyone of you who contributed so please allow me to express my greatest gratitude to you all!
BTW you, JR!, WCP! and myself are all members of the bad-back-pain club - We need more Cancun scuba diving
Well, I cannot scuba (pressurizing issue!) but I sail and snorkel in Caribbean every January…so sign me up too sorta! I’ll drive the boat anyways haha! There is rumor of sailing trip in Thailand in 2026 too!
re viscosity, my e63s sure loves the 5w50. I will not use anything less for the rest of its days/miles
I think the best is to begin by running a Motul 5w40 because it has a high temp stable Ester viscosity that will begin to clean your cooler piston rings above 2000Rpm.
Or try a 10w40 or 15w40 as an intermediate step.
This oil will let you begin to experience the engine moody transformation.
> AVOID to Skip Ahead:
-- Clearly we're trying to avoid switching a powerful unbalanced TT engine to 10w50 and WOT it into pieces. That's what Master Tasos rebuilds all day long...
The ECU does help balance cylinders with tailored multi-shot injection given the right conditions.
It's common knowledge not to open up on a cold engine, right? Add to that unbalanced cylinders too!!
This puts too much stress on too few bearings.
LOL, not at you, its a full time job just reading these improvements everyday......
Thanks to @calibenzdriver and many others for sharing all of these great things helping all of us.
I am not complaining, all these mods what makes a rather compromised vehicle from factory to close to perfect and couldn't had done it without all of your help!
Bed ridden since Jan 8, already got JR suggestions. Waiting for tests, and physician evaluation. At least I was able to cross the pond over the weekend
Yes : ) I am waiting for the recommendations that he recommended as well (thank you again to him!), hopefully they help you as well, wish you all the best to a rapid recovery!
Disconnect Batt GND at brass stud + AUX GND (Reboot step1)
Unplug ALT-LIN!
CTEK float Batt on "AGM setting" while unplugged
Reconnect Batt Main/Aux (Reboot step2)
Set IC to display shop menu: Volt/Amp: 14.15Volts /1Amp.
A few questions --
Steps 1 + 4 -- does this mean I need to do something to cause reboot or does this mean it will cause a reboot due to the step?
Step 3 -- What is "CTEK float Batt"?
Disconnect Batt GND at brass stud + AUX GND (Reboot step1)
Unplug ALT-LIN!
CTEK float Batt on "AGM setting" while unplugged
Reconnect Batt Main/Aux (Reboot step2)
Set IC to display shop menu: Volt/Amp: 14.15Volts /1Amp.
A few questions --
Steps 1 + 4 -- does this mean I need to do something to cause reboot or does this mean it will cause a reboot due to the step?
Step 3 -- What is "CTEK float Batt"?
The reboot and AGM-Float is optional but it might further improve the car.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by QuadTurboPrius
But what does "CTEK float Batt on "AGM setting" while unplugged" mean?
1. Disconnect batteries (both). I would disconnect both the negative and (then) positive posts.
2. Attach a CTEK-brand battery charger to the main (large) battery.
3. Select the CTEK charger to AGM/❆ <--snowflake
1. Disconnect batteries (both). I would disconnect both the negative and (then) positive posts.
2. Attach a CTEK-brand battery charger to the main (large) battery.
3. Select the CTEK charger to AGM/❆ <--snowflake
how long does this float procedure take? like all night usually or couple of hours?
I understand what you are saying, but remember the test I did this summer. I took actual measurements of my oil pan temperature at the drain plug with two different IR thermometers, and the average of the two was within tenths of the temperature displayed in my Instrument Cluster. That told me that, at least as idle, the algorithm used to calculate the temperature based on a number of inputs was accurate. The displayed oil temp was 183°F and the average of the measured temps was 182.7°F. Pretty damned exact if you round the average up.
Calculated oil temperature 183°F 186.4°F 179.0°F
I had the BenzNinja upgrade my cluster software on my S550 (M273 car so different generation of everything than this thread) and oil temp is a display I now have. Obviously I watch it because it's fun. Well, my thermostat was failing and sticking open too much. It wasn't super obvious on the coolant temp gauge (it was if you looked closely), but it was more obvious in the oil temp. I was able to see the oil temp struggle to get above 175 in many scenarios. After replacing my thermostat, oil temp climbs happily to 200 or so, sometimes more.
But guess what? No oil temp sensor on my S550. It's calculated. I have not done a test like shown above but based on the behavior of the display reading, I believe the model/calculation is fairly accurate. It is clearly NOT a made up number and is actually trying to model the actual oil temp based on engine load, rpm, external temp and coolant temp (because of the oil to coolant heat exchanger, and engine RPM dictates flow of each fluid through this heat exchanger so this can be easily modeled). If it was totally fake it would just warm up on a timer and wouldn't track coolant temp. To be clear when the thermostat would stick open, I could watch the coolant temp gauge drop. I would ALSO see this on the oil temp display. It's at least somewhat smart to drop after the engine warmed up (as opposed to a dummy timer or something).
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
