Welcome, happy to have you join us, to get into a workshop menu with the R231, you could follow this just don't do the rest part and insetad of ASSYST PLUS, go to vehicle data.make sure key is in position 1, doors are closed

 

@W205C43PFL Thank you for posting this video. I'll attempt this when I get home this evening. Curious to see where the amperage is and see if it drops like @JettaRed cars did after a short running period.
Thanks again !

 

You're most welcome, the procedure to get into this menu should be the same as forum member JettaRed's.

 

I forgot to mention, you need to be on the trip (odometer) screen as well.

 

@JettaRed @CaliBenzDriver @S-Prihadi Did you guys notice a drop in MPG as well? Wife took car out after ALT in removal and is doing a 200KM drive. Will check onboard machine on the c450 when she returns to see how mileage was. Hopefully less than 8.5L per 100KM as it is mainly highway. This will be the first long drive since alt in disconnect. So far it was only very short city driving. Maybe less than 60KM total since.

 

at least for me was massive increase, usually when driving on S+ i don't pay attention that much because i know it should be a lot but when i drive with my daughter i drive slowly and i love to see what record i make but today this wasn't the case instead i saw 3-4l (even if not 5l) above per 100km, i really hope is only during the adaptation period or it needs the reboot procedure to make proper adaptation, will report back from my side when i have any news about this

 

Are these similar to the Ctech charger? Maybe will purchase this one soon.


NOCO GENIUS2 Smart Battery Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator, 2-Amp, 6V/12V | Canadian Tire

 

I haven't noticed any change in mileage, but I've only done around town driving since disconnecting the ALT-LIN on both cars. Not really sure why there would be worsening mileage. But I also don't know what that LIN signal does. I have noticed perceptible performance increases in both cars to the point I need to be careful in S or S+ modes. I pulled around a truck that decided the middle of the road was a good place to stop, perhaps a little to eagerly, and broke traction in the SL. Not cool when you have a passenger.

Anyone know how to get fingernail dents out of the inside passenger door handle?

 

Honestly, I would just go with CTEK brand. Mercedes relabels CTEK for their chargers.

 

u did not do the float yet did you?

 

I still think the mod raises the idle RPM, maybe that is why.

 

Yes, goood finds :

the NEXPEAK looks even better than my CTEK

(that NOCO does not look too special)

*** Be sure to READ THE MANUAL***
Specially about charging the battery out of circuit
Don't assume "battery in circuit" is the same as "battery out circuit" !!

The difference is the car electronic circuits are built with little tolerance for higher voltages. DISCONNECT OUT OF CIRCUIT.
(MB uses 16V capacitors in audio amplifier)

In float procedure, "AGM SETTINGS" is used while battery is DISCONNECTED during reboot.

 

nope, this night im planning to do it

yes indeed, whenever i remove my leg from the brake the car goes (feels like you giving gas but you didnt) 🤭

 

I have no hands-on exposure with the capacitor bank module that's used as AUX power supply.

We know it is built to for a limited short life with charcoal burning smell - Located under passenger side footwell for easy service.

I don't know the procedure to connect/disconnect this module.... it has really high in-rush current. If you don't know either perhaps you leave it alone or do necessary WIS research to understand its "connection procedure"...


> HIGHER FUEL USE...
The significant jump in gas useage you experience with fixed voltage means you had really poor voltage prior to ALT-LIN, right?

Normal engine control quickly bring down combustion under control using Lambda/cats sensors.
You said you have down-pipes that means ECU was coded to ignore normal combustion feedbacks...

Let me ask you what BATTERY AMPERAGE CURRENT display did you see initially after ALT-LIN and now currently?
This will provide clues.

 

perhaps in our w205 we can only "float" without "reboot" procedure?

 

That explains the additional fuel used.

 

> if so "read the manual" and use moderate voltage settings...

> Without a reboot wonky/busy CGW will stay as is....

> yes, overall that's a way to do it: "No reboot + no float" No pain and fewer gain to.

 

oh.. so should i do those steps except the AUX.. when my LIN is unplugged already?
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9101808

 

Ok, let's re-phrase within context:
your concern is about keeping the "FARAD-CAPS/AUX" in circuit.

The potential issue relates to avoid further damaging an already bad "FARAD-CAPS/AUX" module... I let you figure how to handle this and what to do in regard to float charging and rebooting procedure.

I know exactly what these so called "super-caps" are and the high current they command. Since I don't have hands-on this fake AUX-Batt module, I can only tell you it dislikes high currents. Meaning I would not ve durprise it has a special power-up procedure or a limited number of power-cycles because high currents are damaging. This module is built to fail and get replaced more so than a conventional battery.

Typical you'd want to charge super-capacitor bank with a limited current supply ie. a battery charger or a power-resistor.

So use regular 14.4v float voltage and don't disconnect unless you want to experiment dealing with "fake-AUX" Module.


+++ About SKIPPING REBOOT...
Unfortunately the ECU core timings depend on CAN-C bandwidth that's linked to CGW abilities to translate data that's shown to BENEFIT from REBOOTS......
What's causing that are the voltage differences designed to artificially stress the tranceiver chips ability to adapt to distinct level.

1. the painted GND posts
2. the solderless pins
3. the extra long undersized runs
4. the unbalanced star branches!!!
5. the unstable voltages
6. the glitchy cross-talk

> EVENLY TIMED:
When the tweaks get real good, engine runs vibration free with evenly balanced contributions.

To know how smoothly your engine is timed... simply pay attention to its vibration level at idke and under load.

Maximizing all cylinder work evenly create a strong smooth output instead of the weak stock condition.



++++ SCANNER FUN with ECU CAN-Bus timings....
Use your favorite scanner to scan your chassis while parked with ENGINE RUNNING...
do you notice any engine stumbling or missings ??
That's busy CAN-Bus impacting ECU timings!

JC! is 100% right I am perfectionist!! @JCM_MB
Recognize that it is not really difficult to tweak the setup for "normal" performance....
We only disabled stock instabilities and chassis self-tuned to perfection. Lean misfires are caused by timings issues.

 

Not yet. Too damned cold to be playing with the cars outside.

 

Doesn't raise my idle. Rock steady at 600 rpm.

 

> WHY:
The step of main battery "float charge" while disconnected out using "AGM Settings" maximize the battery ability to absorb circuit ripples variations.

Under optimal conditions, the battery bonifies the circuit its connected to acting like a Farad capacitor.

As it turns out, our chassis is highly voltage sensitive because of GDI multi-spark ignition during the compression stroke.

The coils secondary voltage directly impact combustion timings and mixture.
With a better combustion ECU hands more gas towards optimal stoichiometric value.

With jittery ignition, the ECU is forced to detune the engine with lean mixtures. This results in laggy accelerations and misfires we are all too familiar with.


> HOW :
-- This is done by equalizing the battery individual cells with a higher voltage. The result of this is directly a LOWER INTERNAL RESISTANCE.

-- The Mercedes electrical circuit is built with resistive paths (PreFuse+Cables) to bias ALT vs Batt contribution while driving.

-- When battery is loading down the system with its charge current it's not able to contribute anything.
Normally during driving cycle, all 100% of power is supplied by ALT only. After starting, Battery does next to nothing except help stabilize the ALT regulation.

-- ALT must be loaded by a load current to regulate load voltage well (It does not work with open loads).


> IN A NUTSHELL:
-- Floating Lead-Acid AGM is a desirable non-mandatory step that improves basic throttle response and prolong battery life by reducing heat.
-- Canceling engine laggy throttle allows tranny to learn stable adaptations for seemless shifts.


> FUN:
Float battery monthly and note the difference in chassis responsiveness. For frequent floats, use regular float setting ("non AGM" higher voltage).

 

Once again, @CaliBenzDriver shows his awesomeness!

The other question was "how long does this float procedure take? like all night usually or couple of hours?"

(referring to the step "CTEK float Batt on "AGM setting" while unplugged")

Do you know?

 

Awesome.... is not me!
it is your Mercedes with "normal" setup conditions with luxury OMG self-tuning.


> FLOAT HOW LONG :
this is a goood question that ultimately tells you about the reality of your battery health.
-- Healthy battery 1Hr
-- Tired old battery 7Hr

Do a regular float as much as you want but "AGM Float" is normally reserved for DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES with severely imbalanced cells. Don't indulge in AGM float cycle too often...


the whole story of charging choices

 

Sorry but i get lost, so with unplugged ALT LIN and no way to float/reboot that will kill perhaps the AUX in our w205? so is that means we should go back to plugged ALT LIN or i miss understood you :/