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Old May 9, 2025 | 05:15 PM
  #951  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
you know... the pass/fail test will be easy:
cold vs. hot.
no thermometer necessary.

Engine off:
1 - You zap the solenoid with specific polarity for 5mn
2 - replug the original connector.
3 - clear fault
4 - idle engine.
Cabin hot/cold?

Repeat zapping but with engine idling to allow easier plate motin.
Ah this sounds very fun
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Old May 9, 2025 | 06:14 PM
  #952  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
EASY TO DO

Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
Ah this sounds very fun
if you succeed take the family out for a splurge

> PWM DIODE BEWARE:
-- Use a DVM on ECU/PWM connection to see where is (+) vs. (-) side.

-- Don't cross out 12VDC polarity to PWM !!


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Old May 9, 2025 | 06:19 PM
  #953  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
COMPRESSOR SOFT-START

Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
Oh they do? Hmmmm, how do you usually tell?
My unit was replaced only 2 years ago, I forgot what I ordered.
Record a short clip when home compressor starts up:
is it a Huuuummm...
or
a loud Bang!

5x LRA means business.
big AC motors have huge in-rush surge ... 60Amp for Home A/C

Start/Run Capacitors get tired of being surged and loose uF rating. Measure & replace after ~5Yrs.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 9, 2025 at 06:23 PM.
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Old May 9, 2025 | 07:03 PM
  #954  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Record a short clip when home compressor starts up:
is it a Huuuummm...
or
a loud Bang!

5x LRA means business.
big AC motors have huge in-rush surge ... 60Amp for Home A/C

Start/Run Capacitors get tired of being surged and loose uF rating. Measure & replace after ~5Yrs.
Today is a little cold for a/c, i will keep that in mind, forecasting 27C temperatures here next week.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 03:07 PM
  #955  
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Today was 20-27C, turns out my A/C is not completely dead, I am definitely getting cold air but only starting from driver side vent and only after 10 minutes, it takes 30 minutes for passenger side to get a/c, fair to say I am low on refrigerant. Vehicle at operating temperature, engine oil at 97-103c range. I am still visiting a shop on Wednesday as suggested but I need to find a reputable one first. Thank you all 3 for the assistance!
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Old May 12, 2025 | 05:25 PM
  #956  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
DO'S AND DON'T

Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
Today was 20-27C, turns out my A/C is not completely dead, I am definitely getting cold air but only starting from driver side vent and only after 10 minutes, it takes 30 minutes for passenger side to get a/c, fair to say I am low on refrigerant. Vehicle at operating temperature, engine oil at 97-103c range. I am still visiting a shop on Wednesday as suggested but I need to find a reputable one first. Thank you all 3 for the assistance!
Don't begin by telling A/C shop you need a charge....

Do tell them your compressor shows 100Psi charge.

Then mention variable compressor has a questionable proportional valve.




Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 12, 2025 at 06:08 PM.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 05:47 PM
  #957  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Don't begin by telling A/C shop you need a charge.

Do tell them your compressor has 100Psi charge.

Then mention compressor has known issues with prop valve.

Sounds like a lot of pain I rather not have a/c all summer then
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Old May 12, 2025 | 05:48 PM
  #958  
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What are these known issues specifically?
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Old May 12, 2025 | 06:14 PM
  #959  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
COOL SUMMER SHORTCUT

Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
What are these known issues specifically?
Ask
​​​​@JCM_MB
who is the A/C valve expert.

The issue is they get stuck and disable perfectly good compressor.

No need to blow $2000 on this repair, courtesy of JC's research.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 12, 2025 at 06:15 PM.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 06:36 PM
  #960  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Ask
​​​​@JCM_MB
who is the A/C valve expert.

The issue is they get stuck and disable perfectly good compressor.

No need to blow $2000 on this repair, courtesy of JC's research.
Thank you : )
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Old May 12, 2025 | 07:40 PM
  #961  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Ask
​​​​@JCM_MB
who is the A/C valve expert.

The issue is they get stuck and disable perfectly good compressor.

No need to blow $2000 on this repair, courtesy of JC's research.
I couldn't find their post or thread, do you mind doing the honours and linking it to me please?
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Old May 12, 2025 | 07:42 PM
  #962  
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Is it this one, my vehicle is not exhibiting the symptoms described though: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...lutch-air.html
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Old May 12, 2025 | 08:34 PM
  #963  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
Is it this one, my vehicle is not exhibiting the symptoms described though: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...lutch-air.html
Not the clutch but proportional valve with or without diode.... sourced directly from Toyota-Denso because MB does not retail this sub-component.

Hopefully your compressor model is compatible🤞

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 12, 2025 at 08:35 PM.
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Old May 13, 2025 | 02:21 PM
  #964  
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Okie Dokie so an update. was intended to go to a shop tomorrow so Wednesday but I had something to do today and I figured since I needed to go out anyways might as well stop at a shop. So here I am. Turns out the vehicle was very low on refrigerant (I guess we expected that), likely a leak as also expected. I did not ask them to use leak dye filled refrigerant since I really have to get it done quickly at that time. Compressor checked ok, the hissing noise is completely gone or minute to the point I can't hear it anymore at all fan speeds.
I am pretty happy... for now.
Will monitor.
again... Much much appreciate everyone who helped me!
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Old May 13, 2025 | 02:22 PM
  #965  
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I also said no to stop-leak because I know that stuff is bad in general for the entire system, the seals etc. and those that are used in a/c system wouldn't be better?
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Old May 13, 2025 | 02:23 PM
  #966  
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Old May 13, 2025 | 02:24 PM
  #967  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Not the clutch but proportional valve with or without diode.... sourced directly from Toyota-Denso because MB does not retail this sub-component.

Hopefully your compressor model is compatible🤞
Thanks : ) just saw your message, was out.
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Old May 13, 2025 | 02:27 PM
  #968  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
if you succeed take the family out for a splurge

> PWM DIODE BEWARE:
-- Use a DVM on ECU/PWM connection to see where is (+) vs. (-) side.

-- Don't cross out 12VDC polarity to PWM !!

Sorry about that, didn't notice you posted this post, I scrolled back and realized that. Thank you : )
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Old May 14, 2025 | 02:06 AM
  #969  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
COOOOL A/C AGAIN

Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
Okie Dokie so an update. was intended to go to a shop tomorrow so Wednesday but I had something to do today and I figured since I needed to go out anyways might as well stop at a shop. So here I am. Turns out the vehicle was very low on refrigerant (I guess we expected that), likely a leak as also expected. I did not ask them to use leak dye filled refrigerant since I really have to get it done quickly at that time. Compressor checked ok, the hissing noise is completely gone or minute to the point I can't hear it anymore at all fan speeds.
I am pretty happy... for now.
Will monitor.
again... Much much appreciate everyone who helped me!
This is a perfect bush fix. Nearly charged by weight without scale

Now get on finding your leak:
Condenser pin leak ?
Compressor shaft seal ?
Service ports Hi/Lo side?
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Old May 14, 2025 | 03:21 AM
  #970  
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Originally Posted by W205C43PFL


R134A RECOVERED .......... Dang 0.17 lb is 77 grams only. You have a leak guaranteed.

Oil accidental sucked out 01. oz is 2.8 grams, no worry.

Now use fan speed of 3 bar/level, front vent only open. 18C temperature setting , recyled air setting and smell your vent.
If leak at EVAP by way of mini corossion hole, you can smelll it.

If leak at o-ring of EVAP, 2 pcs, you need to use this damn good bubble tracer, but open your windshield cowling.

BIG BLUE
Amazon Amazon



Spray around here and watch.





At ACcompressor, IN and OUT pipe-hose. Also has o-ring. This is the hottest region of the HVAC. Subaru often failed its o-ring here.


At IHX mini internal exchanger interface.




At condenser IN and OUT connection and the refrigerant pressure sensor, its rather challenging, but at condenser fins and tubes, you best inspect and spray.


.




If leaky condenser and is at opposite hidden side ( towards engine ) , not easy to see itsR134A leak out bubble.
Usually front side ( bumper side ) is the one getting stone chipped and leak.


Happy leak hunting...........

Last edited by S-Prihadi; May 14, 2025 at 03:24 AM.
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Old May 14, 2025 | 03:27 AM
  #971  
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
This is a perfect bush fix. Nearly charged by weight without scale

Now get on finding your leak:
Condenser pin leak ?
Compressor shaft seal ?
Service ports Hi/Lo side?

RRR machine weight scale is inside the RRR, meausuring total weight of the special gas bottle they use.
The gas bottle mix old and new R134A and including air or illegal refrigerant if the RRR has no refrigerant sensor-identifier.
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Old May 14, 2025 | 07:35 AM
  #972  
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We really should have started a new thread about A/C problems. Some good stuff here. Too bad we can't migrate individual postings to a new thread. (Or can we?)
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Old May 14, 2025 | 08:51 AM
  #973  
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When can I pre-order the Cliff's Notes version of this thread? (lol)
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Old May 14, 2025 | 11:59 AM
  #974  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
This is a perfect bush fix. Nearly charged by weight without scale

Now get on finding your leak:
Condenser pin leak ?
Compressor shaft seal ?
Service ports Hi/Lo side?
Thank you!
Reply
Old May 14, 2025 | 12:03 PM
  #975  
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Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
R134A RECOVERED .......... Dang 0.17 lb is 77 grams only. You have a leak guaranteed.

Oil accidental sucked out 01. oz is 2.8 grams, no worry.

Now use fan speed of 3 bar/level, front vent only open. 18C temperature setting , recyled air setting and smell your vent.
If leak at EVAP by way of mini corossion hole, you can smelll it.

If leak at o-ring of EVAP, 2 pcs, you need to use this damn good bubble tracer, but open your windshield cowling.

BIG BLUE
https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration...91&sr=8-4&th=1



Spray around here and watch.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e3ff0e492b.jpg




At ACcompressor, IN and OUT pipe-hose. Also has o-ring. This is the hottest region of the HVAC. Subaru often failed its o-ring here.


At IHX mini internal exchanger interface.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...9e83cc0bbc.jpg



At condenser IN and OUT connection and the refrigerant pressure sensor, its rather challenging, but at condenser fins and tubes, you best inspect and spray.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...94eaa1a638.jpg

.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...5ef132a4f5.jpg


If leaky condenser and is at opposite hidden side ( towards engine ) , not easy to see itsR134A leak out bubble.
Usually front side ( bumper side ) is the one getting stone chipped and leak.


Happy leak hunting...........
Than you! Good news is I don't have the smell specified at those speeds and those temperatures. No more hissing sound like before so that is another good thing.
I should check for leaks soon : )
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