MB Bosch-Valeo expect to sell replacement alternators when regulator brushes get short (120kMi)... I dont think they would dry out that business by using a solid built-in connection.

JR! picture shows similar ALT-LIN plug setup with side mount like yours, without an optional cone-hat.

This shows the latch orientation inwards... that's where you'll find the connector release tab.
Just focus on that latch! (forget the cone strain-relief rubber).

 

How would you replace the alternator if that was the case?

I don't think you need to worry. Actually, once I got under the car and removed 2 or the 3 belly pans, the connector was easy to get to. But, I don't have a bad back, so it's not the same. But I would think leaning over to get it from the top would be worse on your back.

 

TCU stops in D1 gear (E-mode)

-- Does your 722.9-Plus TCU stops in 2nd gear ??
Normally it should stop in 1st gear.


TCU stopped D1 gear in S-mode

-- If TCU adaptations are messed by engine lag, then your powertrain likely also drives in high gear at 20mph, right?
meaning a heavy chassis always in the wrong gear with a laggy throttle = stock!

-- TCU stopping in the wrong gear examplifies poor gear selection.... I used to have this bug since factory!!

 

Good luck hopefully you get it this time : ) please post some pictures if you are able to.

 

That is true! I am optimistic again but I will call it a day tonight, try again later?

 

Hurts both ways leaning and bending back but bending back hurts more.

I agree, alternators are not a lifetime item, your suggestion on it not be permanent makes much more sense.

 

When starting cold, the tranny will start in 1st gear, even in E mode. I see you're in beach weather temps, but the engine and tranny are still "cold" by their definitions.

 

GREY LATCH (see blue circle)

Do you see the grey latch, it's right there facing left inwards I believe.

1. Get down in there...
2. feel around connector
3. pull the latch
4. press to release
5. pull connector
6. done!
7. (Float + Reboot)
8. Test drive with voltage displayed

Confirm test results.

 

Today is Day 3 and the car shifts smoother than ever, but up and down in the lower gears. In the past, the C350 would occasionally slam into a lower gear when rolling along at 15-20 mph in the neighborhood. It honestly hasn't done that but a couple of times in the last year since I had the tranny serviced, but now it just feels smoother.

 

Honestly, it's hard to feel for the little gray latch. I was never sure there was one until I put a mirror down there, and I still wasn't certain I could feel it. That's why I finally went underneath so I could get eyes on it.

 

yes, 55F is Canadian Spring picnic weather...

Speaking of temp my engine fan is not running!!

Fan has been getting shy as ALT-LIN is self adapting further... liking this a lot.

Temp being controlled is good for adaptation to one average visvosity/pressure ECU/TCU.
Less TC slushing hot ATF more direct connection similar regardless of hot or cold.

 

The car held steady at 14.1V +/-0.1V, but mostly at 14.1V. The Amperage did drop down after the car settled down a bit.

 

14.1V is PERFECT but...
13Amp is still high!!
meaning your battery is not neutral

Go ahead do your [Float + Reboot] steps to get direct rewards... you will notice engine response is really voltage-touchy.
This is why I say chassis is not compliant with dynamic 12.6v/14.9v voltage. Chassis tolerates unstable voltage by detuning engine.

14.1V/13Amp is not like 14.1V/1Amp
I do know this paradox hardly make sense !!
Practically there is dropped voltage in prefuse.
Go ahead test drive the difference: the reality is amazingly rewarding.

+++ Dynamic Resistance is called IMPEDANCE matters !
The coil circuit drawing spike current is much more efficient on low impedance source.
Meaning we get better voltage spikes from low power supply impedance.
> Charged up AGM is a must!!
> Improvement likely all ignitions


+++ INJECTORS vs. COPS !!!
Piezoelectric injectors are also based on voltage (I think around 150V actually).

If injectors were tweaked by ALT-LIN better voltage, the fuel map increase after a while would settle back down to nothing changed like without MOD...

The fact we get stronger response as adaptations improve means engine is burning better and earning richer fuel map from cleaner timings.
So that means ALT-LIN Voltage helps ignition spark factor!!!

+++ Ignition HARNESS UP FOR TWEAKING...
-- If battery impedance is a factor in ignition that means the ignition coil harness circuit needs attention.
-- Goal is a lower impedance to get higher voltage spikes. Wiring AWG needs to pass the spikes not the average.
-- The way this is touchy voltage hungry means it may be in the 20 to 30%... not in the insignificant 5% range.

-- Also electrical circuit distances to (+12V.) supply & (0V.) GND needs to be ALL equal to keep cylinders balanced.
-- I sort of recall MS! showing that indeed the factory ignition circuit was unbalanced because I remember making that comment. This is a serious harness No-No.
-- I wonder if there's a correlation with damaged Cyl near the main pullley (V8:1+5; V6:1+4)

-- Voltage affects Timings + Heat.

 

I am jealous but at the same time very happy to hear that, glad you are enjoying the car even more now.

 

question.. did you remove the very front panel or the main bigger one after the bumper to get to alternator? I will do jack up the car shortly...

 

Might be different on the SL or the C 350, compared to our cars, just remove both covers I guess.

 

I removed the front panel (#10) that touches the underside of the bumper cover and the one right behind it (#60). The alternator is right above my steering rack.

 

The amperage did settle down once the car was running for about a minute. I think it was down to 3A or 4A. I'll check tomorrow and pay closer attention.

 

Curious... Did you notice the vehicle idling higher for either NA and turbo cars after the unplug?

 

oh, okay this is about what we could expect from a good AGM after starting.
Even fully charged up, after cranking battery needs that kind of current to top off again.
Gradually decreasing to below zero current in about 15Mn drive.

Alternators are poor battery chargers because they are only voltage regulated and not current limited.
The job of alternators is to supply power to all electrical loads under a controlled voltage, regardless of what current, so long its within desired range.
Meaning use a float charger to keep up your battery if it needs charging.

 

I didn't notice, but it didn't seem like it was any different. I will check again tomorrow.

 

I see, sounds good.

 

Success. I have disconnected the ALT IN.. Upon startup i did notice the Idle sort of jumped up and down slightly... it never did that in my 3 years of ownership..Maybe the car is getting used to this new setup..

 

It's only once after the initial start warm up cycle.
It won't happen afterwards.

Idle Rpm is usually well controlled to keep it down low (650.R's) - Nicely even, well captured, vibration free.

ECU automatically relearns idle to manage idle air bypass. ECU knows when the accelerator pedal redundant circuits are calling for idle.

 

Good job! How did you do it?