Looking for evidence why this intake is not better than stock
#1
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Looking for evidence why this intake is not better than stock
I put this intake together from some pieces I had laying around and what to get some info from those who have dyno/track tested or even runs a similar setup. I know many are concerned this intake will take in hotter air from the engine bay but once the car is moving I think the iat's will be close to stock as there will be plenty of air coming thru the grill area. I also know that this intake will definitely dyno higher than stock as most dyno their cars with the hood open.
I have alot of experiences with american v8's both N/A and FI as im sure others on here do. In almost all cases intake setups like these outperform stock setups on both the dyno and track. Im curious as to why it would be different on this car?
I have been driving around with it on my car for a couple of days and cannot notice a performance difference from stock. Could just be that the butt dyno isnt calibrated sensitively enough. With as much power as these cars make a gain of 10whp would be hard pressed to feel. The only noticable difference is the much more pronounced supercharger whine.
Any input from tuners would be much appreciated as well..Thanks![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
...yes the stock filters are removed...
I have alot of experiences with american v8's both N/A and FI as im sure others on here do. In almost all cases intake setups like these outperform stock setups on both the dyno and track. Im curious as to why it would be different on this car?
I have been driving around with it on my car for a couple of days and cannot notice a performance difference from stock. Could just be that the butt dyno isnt calibrated sensitively enough. With as much power as these cars make a gain of 10whp would be hard pressed to feel. The only noticable difference is the much more pronounced supercharger whine.
Any input from tuners would be much appreciated as well..Thanks
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
...yes the stock filters are removed...
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/juice1979-albums-engine-cover-picture6392-img-0325.jpg)
Last edited by Juice1979; 06-29-2009 at 12:34 AM.
#2
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W211,E90,E66,E39,E38,NSX,Z32-TT
With 500+ HP, any gains from air filters you will need be able to tell or accurate tell with a butt dyno. I think the only real way is to do a pre/post test-run on a dyno.
How does it sound? Is there a deep sound when the engine is under load? If there's a down side to this I would have to say its the heat underneath the hood.
How does it sound? Is there a deep sound when the engine is under load? If there's a down side to this I would have to say its the heat underneath the hood.
#3
i dont think you will see larger numbers on the dyno. it seems more of a ram style intake or cold air intake. if you could some how do a dyno when you were actually moving, and compare before and after install, you might see something. i dont think a fan or two can replicate the volume of air that can fly into the engine bay at high speeds so you might not be able to see results you like on a dyno.
#7
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2004 E55 AMG
Here's why no gains. You've traded a flat filter for round but basically same filter area. no net advantage. You've traded colder front grille air for hot engine air, particularly air that has already passed your radiators, let alone radiant heat from engine. The air slipping in through various openings in front of car won't make up for that.The only thing you have really done is shorten the air path by maybe 8 inches in an intake path that is something like 6 ft long before it gets to the cylinder. BUT, it does look cooler!
Last edited by Wryfox; 06-29-2009 at 05:53 AM.
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#8
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Thread Starter
I understand why everyone thinks this may or may not be benficial, but i was hoping there would have been someone on here with real data to share...hopefully some of the tuners can chime in here
#9
Super Member
what data specifically are you looking for? noone is going to dyno before/after open element filter install... but more importantly the amount of hot air you would be sucking in with those filters is unreal. theres a reason why so many well paid engineers designed what they did.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
what data specifically are you looking for? noone is going to dyno before/after open element filter install... but more importantly the amount of hot air you would be sucking in with those filters is unreal. theres a reason why so many well paid engineers designed what they did.
#13
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#16
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I put this intake together from some pieces I had laying around and what to get some info from those who have dyno/track tested or even runs a similar setup. I know many are concerned this intake will take in hotter air from the engine bay but once the car is moving I think the iat's will be close to stock as there will be plenty of air coming thru the grill area. I also know that this intake will definitely dyno higher than stock as most dyno their cars with the hood open.
I have alot of experiences with american v8's both N/A and FI as im sure others on here do. In almost all cases intake setups like these outperform stock setups on both the dyno and track. Im curious as to why it would be different on this car?
I have been driving around with it on my car for a couple of days and cannot notice a performance difference from stock. Could just be that the butt dyno isnt calibrated sensitively enough. With as much power as these cars make a gain of 10whp would be hard pressed to feel. The only noticable difference is the much more pronounced supercharger whine.
Any input from tuners would be much appreciated as well..Thanks![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
...yes the stock filters are removed...
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/juice1979-albums-engine-cover-picture6392-img-0325.jpg)
I have alot of experiences with american v8's both N/A and FI as im sure others on here do. In almost all cases intake setups like these outperform stock setups on both the dyno and track. Im curious as to why it would be different on this car?
I have been driving around with it on my car for a couple of days and cannot notice a performance difference from stock. Could just be that the butt dyno isnt calibrated sensitively enough. With as much power as these cars make a gain of 10whp would be hard pressed to feel. The only noticable difference is the much more pronounced supercharger whine.
Any input from tuners would be much appreciated as well..Thanks
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
...yes the stock filters are removed...
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/juice1979-albums-engine-cover-picture6392-img-0325.jpg)
Is this what you are looking for?
#17
I also agree. If you dyno your car with this setup could you please do both with the hood open and shut. With this type of system you would definitely benefit from the hood being open but you wouldn't see these same type of condition during normal driving. The intake would have endless amounts of ambient temperature air with no engine heat. Just a thought for testing.
#18
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you know I totally agree but my point is why go through the labor of doing the mod then get lazy and ask others for info regarding it's benefits...finish the project properly by obtaining and sharing your own objective data!
#19
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#20
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E350 Sport & Rs6
Someone said it....
Colder CFM is better than MORE CFM........
Especially on the SC cars....
Does it heat soak real fast? I bet it growls more....
Colder CFM is better than MORE CFM........
Especially on the SC cars....
Does it heat soak real fast? I bet it growls more....
#21
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
Doctor says you have K&Nitis.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ntake-55s.html
And a little more refined effort here,
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-benefits.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ntake-55s.html
And a little more refined effort here,
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-benefits.html
Last edited by Yacht Master; 06-29-2009 at 02:14 PM.
#22
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Thread Starter
I plan on taking it to the track and swapping to the stock setup for sameday comparisons.
No noticeable heat soak, however, I dont drive that much and the few days that it has been installed have not been terribly hot.
Definitely growls alot more than stock!
#23
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V12-Biturbo
Try this, my post from Mushroom Filter thread...
Link to kit I used, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...Q5fAccessories NOTE: toss out the metal pipes! these filters flow so much more cold air vs K&N, just holding them in your hand shoot compressed air thru each type w/other hand feeling air exiting other side of filters dif is HUGE! Also after driving for few minutes the K&N metal weave type heat-up like crazy vs Foam Only Cones after driving 2 hrs in traffic they're cool to touch, lastly I wanted to see if my new set-up was letting fine dust inside airboxes? after 3 wks use I opened up both sides they were sparkling clean, vs stock OEM set-up there would be heavy sand/little rocks on the bottom of boxes under OEM filters.
These Foam Cone filters STOP any of those foreign contaminants from ever entering airboxes. I checked my stock OEM set-up regularly, the rock/sand build up would be their in few wks, just imagine how clogged up & further air restricted this makes OEM set-up?
I totally agreed w/both you guys, I always thought these types of kits were crap, but done my way works, I tested it back to back same day vs same car on 12 tot dif runs/races pre-post mod = multi car length gains...
MAIN differences in my choices are, ditch the equiped metal pipes (they're just heat sinks) w/supplied silcone couplers (Ebay kit) you can use existing plastic tubes, the supplied Foam Cones are better than K&N or other Cone type variants because they're wrapped in folded metal/weave/mesh which = more Heat Sinks.
Lastly you have to DREMEL OUT the plastic walls inside the factory airboxes, there are multi-90 deg bends/plastic wall-restrictions routing air-flow due to OEM filter placement, once removed it's straight thru ram air...
I have 1 more idea that may improve it even more (I'm testing it this wknd) that basically encapsulates the new Foam Cones w/bigger 5"-6" diam flexi-plastic tube routed directly to factory holes then C-clamped in place so NO hot engine air mixing...
MAIN differences in my choices are, ditch the equiped metal pipes (they're just heat sinks) w/supplied silcone couplers (Ebay kit) you can use existing plastic tubes, the supplied Foam Cones are better than K&N or other Cone type variants because they're wrapped in folded metal/weave/mesh which = more Heat Sinks.
Lastly you have to DREMEL OUT the plastic walls inside the factory airboxes, there are multi-90 deg bends/plastic wall-restrictions routing air-flow due to OEM filter placement, once removed it's straight thru ram air...
I have 1 more idea that may improve it even more (I'm testing it this wknd) that basically encapsulates the new Foam Cones w/bigger 5"-6" diam flexi-plastic tube routed directly to factory holes then C-clamped in place so NO hot engine air mixing...
These Foam Cone filters STOP any of those foreign contaminants from ever entering airboxes. I checked my stock OEM set-up regularly, the rock/sand build up would be their in few wks, just imagine how clogged up & further air restricted this makes OEM set-up?
Last edited by Thericker; 06-29-2009 at 05:53 PM.
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Thericker
I wanted to see if my new set-up was letting fine dust inside airboxes? after 3 wks use I opened up both sides they were sparkling clean, vs stock OEM set-up there would be heavy sand/little rocks on the bottom of boxes under OEM filters....These Foam Cone filters STOP any of those foreign contaminants from ever entering airboxes. I checked my stock OEM set-up regularly, the rock/sand build up would be their in few wks, just imagine how clogged up & further air restricted this makes OEM set-up?
Last edited by chiromikey; 06-29-2009 at 06:11 PM.
#25
Out Of Control!!