W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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FSP issues, open to suggestions

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Old 03-06-2015, 09:24 AM
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That code will give the lean condition usually
Old 03-06-2015, 11:03 AM
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I am running the BIP tune and Tony has been great at getting my tunes to me and trying different things. Yes, that code will make the car run extremely lean. It will even run lean if the code is pending. I just got in the habit of checking for codes when I start the car. lol. I am running with the factory s/c clutch plugged in. Sometimes I wonder if the resistor would help this condition.
Old 03-06-2015, 05:36 PM
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My suggestion - either sell it or Toss it lol
Old 03-07-2015, 10:51 AM
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Slightly OT but why XX/X companies release products that are NOT ready and sorted out for public purchase is beyond me. And if XX/X company has more than TWO issues regarding the SAME scenario then it's not a consumer fault. I just don't get the principle of these things. Premature release of products for profit I assume.
Old 03-07-2015, 11:39 AM
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I've hurd from a little birdy that Eurocharged is soon stopping tuning for the "fixed" pulley... Hope it's true, only people will be left is BIP... There are just too many issues with these pulleys.... Should have never been on the market till they figured everything out for them...
Old 03-07-2015, 12:03 PM
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Is there anyone running a FSP without any issue at all? Should I spend my time with BIP putting my clutched pulley back on and getting another dyno tune(like I had previously)....what a waste, I'm already tired of wasting time and money on this but I have high hopes. I love the potential of it, it feels like it could be awesome. I want it to work.

Last edited by Moosepuck; 03-07-2015 at 03:47 PM.
Old 03-07-2015, 04:31 PM
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I am putting my money with BIP! I will have a base tune installed, and then take it for a dyno tune.
Old 03-07-2015, 07:38 PM
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Judging by their way they answered in their FSP tune thread, i think the return of investment is simply to low for the FSP. Thats all. They can resolve all the remaining issues, but the ROI for the box tune is to low. If they are honest people i think they should come forward and tell us exactly that.
There was already a larger timeframe when Eurocharged stopped the FSP tune and removed it for their websites. But then IIRC came Boxtune Version "V2" and it did resolve many of the issues people had before.
Recently came Boxtune Version "V3" and it actually seemed to me that all issues should have been wiped out besides that annoying idle-rattle with these pulleys.
I hope other FSP users can chime in and help Moosepuck with his issues.

For reference, first FSP selling thread by the vendor: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-c-pulley.html
Old 03-07-2015, 09:05 PM
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For all those getting the lean problems especially during start up. Can you try something new? Put a bottle of seafoam with a tank of gas and see.

My experience has been I do not get any hiccups, cold start problems, or most of the other FSP related problems I have experienced so far. The only issue that stays on is the shift lag issue which I'm not addressing yet.

My guess? A lot of the people having issues have also not changed or their fuel pumps and sending units in 40k miles or longer. Yes I know 40k miles isn't that long compared to the 60k mile recommendation by MB, but that's all I have on mine and putting seafoam or lucas oil in my tank alleviates most of my symptoms with the fsp

Last edited by kponti; 03-07-2015 at 09:08 PM.
Old 03-07-2015, 09:10 PM
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Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. Sometimes it helps clear up little weird things. When mine goes into "crap mode", it stays that way until I pull the battery cable.
To avoid "crap mode", I have to put the ignition in position 2 for 10 seconds before starting engine whenever it is a cold start.

Even though you're on the stock throttle body, try doing the throttle body reset. Do a quick search for them on here. I'm on my phone right now and posting it would be a pita.
Old 03-07-2015, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Denroll
Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. Sometimes it helps clear up little weird things. When mine goes into "crap mode", it stays that way until I pull the battery cable.
To avoid "crap mode", I have to put the ignition in position 2 for 10 seconds before starting engine whenever it is a cold start.

Even though you're on the stock throttle body, try doing the throttle body reset. Do a quick search for them on here. I'm on my phone right now and posting it would be a pita.
Easier than disconnecting the battery is to use a obd2 reader to erase the code (pending or on) while the engine is running. Then cycle the engine on and off and it will clear the issue right up.
Old 03-07-2015, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kponti
Easier than disconnecting the battery is to use a obd2 reader to erase the code (pending or on) while the engine is running. Then cycle the engine on and off and it will clear the issue right up.
That's usually what I do. I'm still not understanding my p0105 code but I do have the 82mm TB. Other than that mine is great.
Old 03-08-2015, 11:55 AM
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Still learning about this plat form...What is a FSP?
Old 03-08-2015, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 10-94
Still learning about this plat form...What is a FSP?
Fixed Solid Pulley vs the stock platform which has the clutched pulley
Old 03-08-2015, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kponti
Fixed Solid Pulley vs the stock platform which has the clutched pulley
I think FSP stands for "Fixed Supercharger Pulley". You can learn about them by the link i posted in my last post in this thread.

I think its the most awesome mod for these cars... but seeing that the tune is not perfect, renders this pulley almost useless for daily driving.
Old 03-08-2015, 12:22 PM
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Here is what I've found so far after about 5 months of the fsp:

-Cold starts are 50/50 on getting the MAP sensor code and subsequent lean condition.

-The MAP code can be either pending or full on, doesn't matter, your car will still run lean and sputter on acceleration (extremely mild acceleration will allow the car to move but looking at a wideband reading, it's still lean, just not lean enough to cause the sputtering)

On the above conditions, you will have to clear CEL with obd2 scanner while the engine is running and cycle key on and off. Or you will have to disconnect battery. This will get you out of that problem until you get another cold start issue.
Prevention is to wait 5 to 10 seconds with key on 2nd position before starting engine.

-There is also a hiccup that occurs usually when you are simply cruising around, and you get the same MAP code. This has the same symptoms as the cold start, however the pseudo fix is easier. Just pull over and cycle engine on and off to get back to normal again.

Now my extra observation from pure chance, no real fact or reason to back this up, just happened each and every time.
-One bottle of the Seafoam engine cleaner with a tank of gas. No more cold start issues whatsoever! Not even pending codes. I have done this on 3 separate tankfulls and have the exact same results!!! Also definitely no hiccups either!

This above observation is what has made me keep the FSP. I still have my 84mm clutched pulley and was tempted to reinstall and never look back. However I feel like maybe the problem is not necessarily tune related. May be mechanical. Is so may explain why some have the issues and others don't. Also NO ONE with a Weistec blower which has a solid pulley has this issue.

I believe you need a clean filter and well working fuel pump to be able to run the FSP. I have stopped bugging Tony for tunes to fix my fsp issues and instead setup an appt with a dealer to replace pumps and sending units. I will report back what I find after those have been replaced.
PS: I only have about 40 to 50k miles on my current fuel pumps and sending units

Last edited by kponti; 03-08-2015 at 01:00 PM.
Old 03-08-2015, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kponti
Here is what I've found so far after about 5 months of the fsp:

-Cold starts are 50/50 on getting the MAP sensor code and subsequent lean condition.

-The MAP code can be either pending or full on, doesn't matter, your car will still run lean and sputter on acceleration (extremely mild acceleration will allow the car to move but looking at a wideband reading, it's still lean, just not lean enough to cause the sputtering)

On the above conditions, you will have to clear CEL with obd2 scanner while the engine is running and cycle key on and off. Or you will have to disconnect battery. This will get you out of that problem until you get another cold start issue.
Prevention is to wait 5 to 10 seconds with key on 2nd position before starting engine.

-There is also a hiccup that occurs usually when you are simply cruising around, and you get the same MAP code. This has the same symptoms as the cold start, however the pseudo fix is easier. Just pull over and cycle engine on and off to get back to normal again.

Now my extra observation from pure chance, no real fact or reason to back this up, just happened each and every time.
-One bottle of the Seafoam engine cleaner with a tank of gas. No more cold start issues whatsoever! Not even pending codes. I have done this on 3 separate tankfulls and have the exact same results!!! Also definitely no hiccups either!

This above observation is what has made me keep the FSP. I still have my 84mm clutched pulley and was tempted to reinstall and never look back. However I feel like maybe the problem is not necessarily tune related. May be mechanical. Is so may explain why some have the issues and others don't. Also NO ONE with a Weistec blower which has a solid pulley has this issue.

I believe you need a clean filter and well working fuel pump to be able to run the FSP. I have stopped bugging Tony for tunes to fix my fsp issues and instead setup an appt with a dealer to replace pumps and sending units. I will report back what I find after those have been replaced.
PS: I only have about 40 to 50k miles on my current fuel pumps and sending units
I have aem fuel pumps and an external fuel filter. I got rid of the factory one in the basket. I also have 550cc injectors. My fsp is smaller than most. I had mine turned down to 71mm. 3rd gear I make 15.5 psi. I do daily drive my car. I just have to check for codes on startup. That is my only issue.
Old 03-08-2015, 05:49 PM
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Good luck! Everything on mine even slightly tune up related has been replaced in the last 3000 miles, to include fuel pumps and sending unit. I'll report back after BIP trip.
Old 03-08-2015, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Moosepuck
Good luck! Everything on mine even slightly tune up related has been replaced in the last 3000 miles, to include fuel pumps and sending unit. I'll report back after BIP trip.
Ahh so new pumps and filters and still having the same problems? OK hey I'll admit when I'm wrong and it seems I'm barking up the wrong tree with the fuel stuff.
Now this begs the question..... Why is it that whenever I put in a bottle of seafoam, my car runs perfect (save the shift lag that I haven't tried addressing yet)?
Can anyone else (not you Moose) try the Seafoam in tank thing and report? It's gotten to the point that if I'm busy that week, I'll just put a bottle in and have a good tank with my 80mm fsp
Old 03-08-2015, 07:56 PM
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https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ms-survey.html
Old 03-09-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by BC928
Too much time has passed. If there were more people wanting it changed and understood, more people would be paying and there would be more innovation.

Look at what the 2015 Corvette people ALREADY have. They are on E85 and talking about coding options for dual fuel. Jesus.

The ECU needs to be cracked. There may just not be the money in it. And if there isn't NOW, there won't ever be. That's sad.
What do you mean by the ECU needs to be cracked?
Old 03-09-2015, 10:25 AM
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The ecu on the 55k is still a limiting factor in the tuning since not all aspects are open to tuners.
Old 03-09-2015, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Moosepuck
Is there anyone running a FSP without any issue at all? Should I spend my time with BIP putting my clutched pulley back on and getting another dyno tune(like I had previously)....what a waste, I'm already tired of wasting time and money on this but I have high hopes. I love the potential of it, it feels like it could be awesome. I want it to work.
I can tell you that I run an 80mm FSP on my daily driver and have no major issues what so ever, the second tune Jerry provided me even got 95% of the 2000 RPM glitch removed.
Old 03-10-2015, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
The ecu on the 55k is still a limiting factor in the tuning since not all aspects are open to tuners.
So what would it take to crack it?

Also, is running a standalone and keeping the cluster and ESP working that difficult?
Old 03-10-2015, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by e500slr
So what would it take to crack it?

Also, is running a standalone and keeping the cluster and ESP working that difficult?
The Mitsubishi and Subaru communities went through this very thing for a while until somebody sat down and created an open source solution. From there many talented individuals contributed to the effort figuring out how to translate the code into tables, how to add definitions, and how to increase scalabilty, etc.....

In 2003, when I bought my Evo, anything above 750cc injectors would require the use of a standalone Ecu, converting from a MAF setup to speed density was a pipe dream unless on standalone, "bricking" a stock ecu was a more common occurrence. Now in 2015 the only limiting factor in injector size is what's available, speed density is everyday, adding in a wideband to be read by the ecu is common, true flex fuel is a reality, map sensor scaling is not an alien concept, ecu's are not bricking as commonly, etc.... Bottom line, full stock ecu control and program-ability. It changed the game on what we expected out of the aftermarket for those platforms. Hell, it put Cobb Tuning and AEM on their toes for more than a while.

So is it possible for us to have that? Yes, if we find talent within the community who is willing to give their time and efforts to do what was done for the Mitsubishi and Subaru communities.

As to the second part of your question, the answer is yes and no. Because so much of the car's electronics are tied into an ecu, any aftermarket ecu solution would have to:
1) Be a piggyback solution that would modify and override only certain parameters that we want (not ideal as the ecu would probably try to fight some of the changes by it's inherent nature).

2) Would have to replace every ecu in the car (this would most likely have a give and take as you'd most likely have to eliminate some of the luxury features to make it do what you want the ecu to do).

3) Would be extremely expensive and potentially cost prohibitive to make if a solution to replace the ecu and retain EVERYTHING was developed (the market for this would be somewhat small as our family of cars is in teh thousands to begin with. The market for people willing to go to that extreme is only a select percentage of what's out there).

Make no mistake gentlemen, if I had the knowledge of how to write code or the ability to pull my ROM data, I'd happily give my time to collaborate on such a project. Alas, I do not. However, the guys over on OpenECU do. Perhaps someone within our community with the ability to pull our ROM data could start a dialogue there and maybe make something happen.

That's enough of my soapbox rant of the day. I'm off to work.


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