Oil pump solenoids




when I pull her out of indoor storage, and I turn the key to all power on BUT I have not started the engine yet,
is the oil pump working, circulating (cold) oil, and attempting to lubricate the engine?
Or does the oil pump (with disconnected solenoid) only engage with a running engine?
I am trying to determine whether I can lubricate the engine internals before starting the engine, especially after it has been sitting for a long period of time. TIA
Make sure your batteries are fully charged after storage. ALT is NOT any good at battery charging with unlimited current.
Master Surya has developed an effective oil priming procedure for his engine @S-Prihadi
Make sure your batteries are fully charged after storage. ALT is NOT any good at battery charging with unlimited current.
Master Surya has developed an effective oil priming procedure for his engine @S-Prihadi
He uses XENTRY and other tools remotely to diagnose and fix problems (when possible). He also does some custom programming and configurations to enable features natively that may be "turned off" from the factory. One such configuration change is to a Agility/Sport+ to non-AMG and other models that may not have it enabled. He can also turon off the ECO START/STOP and change it to stay on the last setting. His list of modifications is on his website.
Of course, to be able to do any of this, you need the SDS setup comprising of a Windows laptop, the XENTRY suite of software, and a C4 Multiplexer to connect the laptop to the OBD port, just like the deal does.
You will see his banner on the home page of several forums.
when I pull her out of indoor storage, and I turn the key to all power on BUT I have not started the engine yet,
is the oil pump working, circulating (cold) oil, and attempting to lubricate the engine?
Or does the oil pump (with disconnected solenoid) only engage with a running engine?
I am trying to determine whether I can lubricate the engine internals before starting the engine, especially after it has been sitting for a long period of time. TIA
One approach is to disable the LPFP (which is electric) by pulling its fuse. But you also want to disable the fuel injectors so they don't spray what little fuel is in the fuel lines. Remember, the HPFP is mechanical. Also, disable the spark plugs for the same reason.
There is a process of holding down the brake pedal and accelerator pedal to the floor while you crank the engine. That is the method used when doing the comparative compression testing. The engine will turn over without starting. That seems to be common among many brands of cars. Someone may want to confirm that. If that works, you may not need to pull all those fuses.
Last edited by JettaRed; Mar 3, 2025 at 07:13 PM.




This can gets impacted by limp Bank1 chain tensioner on w30 oil viscosity.
Here is a related video that may better explain things.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Try upgrading to an AMSOIL SIG. PAO oil or MB Approved MOTUL ester Group V to hold necessary viscosity longer.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 3, 2025 at 08:53 PM.
https://www.blauparts.com/ravenol-mo...2-Q37dyI&gQT=2
https://www.blauparts.com/ravenol-mo...2-Q37dyI&gQT=2
Last edited by JettaRed; Mar 4, 2025 at 08:57 AM.




A PAO lubricant... specs read well
Just like Amsoil Signature: nicely stable PAO stock without short lived polymers to shear into lower grade.
15w50 is bit heavy... 5 to 10w50 maybe preferable
I could not find if the claim of "racing oil" is based on ZDDP, it's usually what it is. The main killer of exhaust cats and Lambdas. It has tungsten in it...

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 4, 2025 at 04:01 PM.




clean specs:
Visco 17
Poor point -40
Flash 240
This is a legacy stock API-SN...
It's not a cleaner API-SP.
Use this lubricant is far better than group III polymer blends.
It is a ZDDP oil and may be heavy ZDDP to be coined as "Racing oil"... Not good as daily driver but good for racing with associated needs.
Would I use this..?
--> Best to get yourself a clean API-SP instead!

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 4, 2025 at 02:20 PM.




I've mixed small 100mL shots of 15w50 oil as booster when I was experimenting away from stock visvosity to position VVT without jerkiness.
Play with it... 2x100mL: you'll see how the ECU is highly responsive to your viscosity improvements towards 5/10W50 -
Enjoy testing.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 6, 2025 at 03:54 PM.




One approach is to disable the LPFP (which is electric) by pulling its fuse. But you also want to disable the fuel injectors so they don't spray what little fuel is in the fuel lines. Remember, the HPFP is mechanical. Also, disable the spark plugs for the same reason.
There is a process of holding down the brake pedal and accelerator pedal to the floor while you crank the engine. That is the method used when doing the comparative compression testing. The engine will turn over without starting. That seems to be common among many brands of cars. Someone may want to confirm that. If that works, you may not need to pull all those fuses.
We need to do Xentry Compression Test ( relative compression test ) to do this. This test would not produce DTC and will do CRANK-ONLY but NO START, while getting the
Relative Compression value by way of cylinders crank speed comparisons .




when I pull her out of indoor storage, and I turn the key to all power on BUT I have not started the engine yet,
is the oil pump working, circulating (cold) oil, and attempting to lubricate the engine?
Or does the oil pump (with disconnected solenoid) only engage with a running engine?
I am trying to determine whether I can lubricate the engine internals before starting the engine, especially after it has been sitting for a long period of time. TIA
For the one in blue above :
You can use Xentry compresion test, it does help to build up oil pressure while spinning egine only at 200 ish RPM using the starter motor when doing this Relative Compression Test.
Here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...operation.html
Slow 200 RPM for approx 6 seconds of the Xentry Comp-test is way better that immediate 1,000 - 1,200 ish RPM of COLD START.
Also when there is no combustion taking place, engine is not loaded, thus very less wear and tear since there is no combustion exerting pressure back to crankshaft ad piston.
I've mixed small 100mL shots of 15w50 oil as booster when I was experimenting away from stock visvosity to position VVT without jerkiness.
Play with it... 2x100mL: you'll see how the ECU is highly responsive to your viscosity improvements towards 5/10W50 -
Enjoy testing.

I will give this a shot in about a 1000 miles or so, I want to give the new spark plugs their moment
We need to do Xentry Compression Test ( relative compression test ) to do this. This test would not produce DTC and will do CRANK-ONLY but NO START, while getting the
Relative Compression value by way of cylinders crank speed comparisons .
(By the way, some 3rd party scanners, like LAUNCH, will also allow you to initiate the Compression Test if you don't have XENTRY. The LAUNCH Creader Elite (1.0) BENZ would be an inexpensive option to keep with the car whenever starting after a long winter's sleep.)




That comes from spark + rich/neutral mixtures, not just spark + lean misfiring maps.
To satisfy ECU criterias, you'll need viscosity to stabilize the glitchy VVT that screws up engine timings.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 6, 2025 at 06:59 PM.






