OPS was disconnected last year on my M278 due to detailed contributions in this thread. Thank you.
when I pull her out of indoor storage, and I turn the key to all power on BUT I have not started the engine yet,
is the oil pump working, circulating (cold) oil, and attempting to lubricate the engine?
Or does the oil pump (with disconnected solenoid) only engage with a running engine?
I am trying to determine whether I can lubricate the engine internals before starting the engine, especially after it has been sitting for a long period of time. TIA
The M278 has no less than FOUR CHAINS, oil pump is driven by its own chain off the crankshaft.
Make sure your batteries are fully charged after storage. ALT is NOT any good at battery charging with unlimited current.
Master Surya has developed an effective oil priming procedure for his engine @S-Prihadi
BenzNinja is just basically XENTRY for the common man?
Very interested in it since our family has all MB and i have been wanting to get rid of the start/stop in the s580 for a loooong time
No. BenzNinja is a service provider for dealer level (or better) diagnostic support. You can get all the info from his website: https://benzninja.com/mbw/
He uses XENTRY and other tools remotely to diagnose and fix problems (when possible). He also does some custom programming and configurations to enable features natively that may be "turned off" from the factory. One such configuration change is to a Agility/Sport+ to non-AMG and other models that may not have it enabled. He can also turon off the ECO START/STOP and change it to stay on the last setting. His list of modifications is on his website.
Of course, to be able to do any of this, you need the SDS setup comprising of a Windows laptop, the XENTRY suite of software, and a C4 Multiplexer to connect the laptop to the OBD port, just like the deal does.
You will see his banner on the home page of several forums.
OPS was disconnected last year on my M278 due to detailed contributions in this thread. Thank you.
when I pull her out of indoor storage, and I turn the key to all power on BUT I have not started the engine yet,
is the oil pump working, circulating (cold) oil, and attempting to lubricate the engine?
Or does the oil pump (with disconnected solenoid) only engage with a running engine?
I am trying to determine whether I can lubricate the engine internals before starting the engine, especially after it has been sitting for a long period of time. TIA
As mentioned, the oil pump is mechanical rather than electric. I doubt the inside is bone dry, but it is a good idea to turn the engine over before actually starting it if I has been sitting a very long time.
One approach is to disable the LPFP (which is electric) by pulling its fuse. But you also want to disable the fuel injectors so they don't spray what little fuel is in the fuel lines. Remember, the HPFP is mechanical. Also, disable the spark plugs for the same reason.
There is a process of holding down the brake pedalandaccelerator pedal to the floor while you crank the engine. That is the method used when doing the comparative compression testing. The engine will turn over without starting. That seems to be common among many brands of cars. Someone may want to confirm that. If that works, you may not need to pull all those fuses.
I found something interesting while looking through my VMI. Apparently the dealer that performed maintenance prior to my ownership used a blend of oil viscosity in my 157 engine.
The high-pressure fuel pump in some diesel engines are controlled by oil pressure. 7.3L used in Ford pickups for example.
MB times the proportioning valves on our 3 or 4 cam lobes, single or dual high pressure pump with an ECU solenoid.
This can gets impacted by limp Bank1 chain tensioner on w30 oil viscosity.
I found something interesting while looking through my VMI. Apparently the dealer that performed maintenance prior to my ownership used a blend of oil viscosity in my 157 engine.
I found something interesting while looking through my VMI. Apparently the dealer that performed maintenance prior to my ownership used a blend of oil viscosity in my 157 engine.
Stock 0/5w40 are virtually equal. They are setup to quickly shear into w30 range.
Try upgrading to an AMSOIL SIG. PAO oil or MB Approved MOTUL ester Group V to hold necessary viscosity longer.
...There is a process of holding down the brake pedalandaccelerator pedal to the floor while you crank the engine. That is the method used when doing the comparative compression testing. The engine will turn over without starting. That seems to be common among many brands of cars. Someone may want to confirm that. If that works, you may not need to pull all those fuses.
Here are the procedures in XENTRY for the compression test.
Definitely not, unless you only race your car. It's a racing oil and not intended for everyday driving. Search some videos on YouTube about racing oils. The Oil Geek is probably a good channel. And 15W-50 is a bit aggressive.
A PAO lubricant... specs read well
Just like Amsoil Signature: nicely stable PAO stock without short lived polymers to shear into lower grade.
15w50 is bit heavy... 5 to 10w50 maybe preferable
I could not find if the claim of "racing oil" is based on ZDDP, it's usually what it is. The main killer of exhaust cats and Lambdas. It has tungsten in it...
@CaliBenzDriver would something like this be beneficial for our intents and purposes...?
yes, you can use this viscosity booster to spike aged W40 oil when it looses effective viscosity or to ease your way up step by step towards the W50 target range.
I've mixed small 100mL shots of 15w50 oil as booster when I was experimenting away from stock visvosity to position VVT without jerkiness.
Play with it... 2x100mL: you'll see how the ECU is highly responsive to your viscosity improvements towards 5/10W50 -
Enjoy testing.
As mentioned, the oil pump is mechanical rather than electric. I doubt the inside is bone dry, but it is a good idea to turn the engine over before actually starting it if I has been sitting a very long time.
One approach is to disable the LPFP (which is electric) by pulling its fuse. But you also want to disable the fuel injectors so they don't spray what little fuel is in the fuel lines. Remember, the HPFP is mechanical. Also, disable the spark plugs for the same reason.
There is a process of holding down the brake pedal and accelerator pedal to the floor while you crank the engine. That is the method used when doing the comparative compression testing. The engine will turn over without starting. That seems to be common among many brands of cars. Someone may want to confirm that. If that works, you may not need to pull all those fuses.
The one in blue is some US cars is called : Clear Flood mode, on purpose for CRANK ONLY, but NO START, our W212 can't do that.
We need to do Xentry Compression Test ( relative compression test ) to do this. This test would not produce DTC and will do CRANK-ONLY but NO START, while getting the
Relative Compression value by way of cylinders crank speed comparisons .
OPS was disconnected last year on my M278 due to detailed contributions in this thread. Thank you.
when I pull her out of indoor storage, and I turn the key to all power on BUT I have not started the engine yet,
is the oil pump working, circulating (cold) oil, and attempting to lubricate the engine?
Or does the oil pump (with disconnected solenoid) only engage with a running engine? I am trying to determine whether I can lubricate the engine internals before starting the engine, especially after it has been sitting for a long period of time. TIA
For the one in blue above :
You can use Xentry compresion test, it does help to build up oil pressure while spinning egine only at 200 ish RPM using the starter motor when doing this Relative Compression Test.
Here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...operation.html
Slow 200 RPM for approx 6 seconds of the Xentry Comp-test is way better that immediate 1,000 - 1,200 ish RPM of COLD START.
Also when there is no combustion taking place, engine is not loaded, thus very less wear and tear since there is no combustion exerting pressure back to crankshaft ad piston.
yes, you can use this viscosity booster to spike aged W40 oil when it looses effective viscosity or to ease your way up step by step towards the W50 target range.
I've mixed small 100mL shots of 15w50 oil as booster when I was experimenting away from stock visvosity to position VVT without jerkiness.
Play with it... 2x100mL: you'll see how the ECU is highly responsive to your viscosity improvements towards 5/10W50 -
Enjoy testing.
I will give this a shot in about a 1000 miles or so, I want to give the new spark plugs their moment
The one in blue is some US cars is called : Clear Flood mode, on purpose for CRANK ONLY, but NO START, our W212 can't do that.
We need to do Xentry Compression Test ( relative compression test ) to do this. This test would not produce DTC and will do CRANK-ONLY but NO START, while getting the
Relative Compression value by way of cylinders crank speed comparisons .
I've only done this with the Compression Test -- never tried it without initiating the test.
(By the way, some 3rd party scanners, like LAUNCH, will also allow you to initiate the Compression Test if you don't have XENTRY. The LAUNCH Creader Elite (1.0) BENZ would be an inexpensive option to keep with the car whenever starting after a long winter's sleep.)
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
