S-Prihadi

I have the same starfinder from BennNinja, but on my laptop dedicated for Xentry-Ninja.
I hate using small 15.6" screen laptop, so I only use my 2018 EPC/WIS ebay sources on my PC bigger 27" x 2 screen.
I think BenzNinja starfinder is 2020 yes ?

BDC90

No kidding. Spring in N.E. PA U.S.A. today 40 tomorrow 60

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

His latest is actually 2022. But I was using an older version before and the new version does NOT include the M278, but rather the M279.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Woohoo! Time to work on my tan.

CaliBenzDriver

You are in MOD2.0 and witness your oil temp stays low and slow to rise while cruising within normal moving traffic.

PARADOX: oil staying cold on a hot engine

Everything you report is consistent with MOD2.0.
MOD1 or 2.0 can not spray at driving RPM... 2.1 does.

It is validated by Master Surya's data log as follows.

oil temp linked to driving rpm: difference between "1" vs. "2" is RPM ie. oil pressure!

Your test drive RPM is under the "phase 1" when oil is not sprayed on pistons. Pistons stay burning hot, cylinders dry-lubed, Oil stays cold and soon turns black.
Your oil is not cold because it is overcooling --- The opposite: oil is cold because it is doing nothing. Pistons are kept steaming hot.

Choice is yours...
- If you want cooled pistons and sealed/wet cylinders, you spray them with oil at driving RPM (aka. MOD2.1).

- You will then see oil temp climbing quickly and be regulated by smart Tstat.

- Your oil being newish with fresh polymers I would be conservative and add only 200ml of 15w50 booster. Or do 100ml twice couple days a part - You will be positively amazed at least temperature wise.

With straight 5w40, the spraying is improved compared to 0w40 but not reaching normal driving RPM. Dry cylinders rings keep blow-by HIGH by design. To stop burning oil black you need to spray cool pistons at driving RPM.... MOD2.1.

We could care less about oil temp and color... what we want is VVT reliably positioned to time the HPFP ctl valve.

The VVT control predictive style does not tolerate well steps. Squirters opening or solenoid mess up VVT exact timing. This tanks injection performance.

When all timing impediments are removed BOSCH ECU readily sprays rich mixtures from neutral trim. All sponginess further replaced with awesome torque at 900.RPM.

Predictable timings are what MOD2.1 delivers besides normal pistons cooling.

Seeing is believing ...

cooling pistons preserves oil qualities


MOTUL 5w40 oil at 2500.Mi on MOD2.1

My engine used to burn oil black under 500.Mi - Now I appreciate seeing fair color at 2500.Mi.

Temperature controlled oil has stable viscosity. Exactly what ECU needs to dial VVT position for HPFP timings.

PeterUbers

similar to mine now and seems normal.

However when I had this condition and it was a bit worse, I had the a stuck thermostat but I did get a CEL

reminds me of a legendary thread:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...e-problem.html

CaliBenzDriver

It is when connecting all the dots that things make sense. Without a common thread facts are seemingly unrelated.

PARADOX: "My engine is too hot but my oil is too cold" thread ...

The discovery process is to realize that one thing leads to another.

- I don't know what getting lower blow-by will do to TT engines in terms of performance before the boost mixture kicks in.

- I am sure that getting stable VVT positioning will help any engine type over wobling locked-unlocked-locked goofy camshafts.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

It's been a little over three months since I measured my oil pressure (12/28/23) and since then I have added CERA TEC oil additive, and most recent, added about 300ml of Mobil 1 15W-50. At both times, I withdrew 300ml of motor oil so that I would not overfill the crankcase. Back in December I had disconnected the solenoid for about a month. My oil pressure then can be seen in this video. When you watch, notice that it took nearly 7 seconds to get any pressure measured on the gauge. Also, notice that at idle, my oil pressure was a little over 20 psi, climbing to about 50 psi at 2500 rpm where it stayed up to 4000 rpm. The car was in Park and was rev limited to 4000 rpm.


Today, I decided to measure my pressure again after three months and notice the difference. I have oil pressure immediately and it climbs smoothly to nearly 50 psi. That was the initial start on a cold engine, so idle was probably closer to 1000-1100 rpm before settling down to 600-650 rpm.


Once warmed up a bit, but not at operating temperature, oil pressure settled to 40 psi at idle.


Revving the engine again to max while in Park, the pressure climbed to a little over 50 psi.


Lastly, I start the car again after the engine has warmed up some more and pressure climbs steadily and settles at idle at about 27 psi. Revving the engine, even when in gear and brake applied, gets to 50 psi, but now at idle the pressure is 35 psi.

CaliBenzDriver

JR, your M276 TT engine has a seriously nice healthy sound in the R's even without any load.
You are officially No1 TT on MOD2.1


We see your engine now has good pressure, apparently a bit on the high side with 300ml shot.
Oil viscosity decreases with aging so this will eventually taper off a bit in 2.5kMiles.

Your oil lubricating qualities are going to remain stable over temperature and time. Meaning both the engine + tranny performance are going to REMAIN EQUAL over 20mn drive like 2 hours drives. No more getting lumpy at operating temps. Rock steady performance from stable oil viscosity allowing reliable VVT positioning.

This is positively delivering MOD2.1 at normal driving RPM:

1. Sealed rings minimal blow-by
2. Spray cooled pistons
3. Wet lubed cylinders
4. No oil consumption or burning
5. Stable regulated oil temperature/viscosity
6. ....

Now simply let your ECU/TCU adapt to these improved conditions. Expects a bit of confusion while VVT + Shift points are being normalized to become rock-solid predictable + smooth.


> Questions ...
-- How many Miles since MOD2.1 ??

-- How is the integrity of your vacuum pump "tiny red check-valve": ok?

-- I have no idea what ECU tunes do and no idea how tunes interact with any oiling MOD. If tunes don't rely ont hard-set tables then ECU/TCU will be allowed to self-adapt else be constrained by presets.


I think you are well set to enjoy ECU/TCU delivering further self-improvements. Hopefully one day out of the blue, your ECU switches to "diesel style" GDI idling plus "start-no-crank" described in your WIS pdf.


+++ I like the idea but....
The dry-lubing advanced film chemistry is far superior to the way engine company integrated it.
Many downfalls could be fixed with better ECU firmware.
The VVT gears are too dependent on pressure and viscosity - Using calculated oil pressure and oil temp values is disfavorable to premium engines. This ensures the VVT position to be wrong = LAG GALORE - Now retired with MOD2.1.

+++ AMAZIN'
I just realized there are three kinds of threads:

• My oil is too cold
• My engine is shot
• My performance is weird

Can these conditions be tied to oiling issues....?

S-Prihadi

Jetta,

Your result is similar to mine.









At your equivalent ECM "calculated" oil temperature of 103F / 39.4C




.
If at your equivalent coolant temp of 149F / 65C




Your should also test the oil pressure at engine oil temperature of 205F / 96C , after you can heat up your coolant to 222F / 105.9C
But now your weather is cold... . need to wait till hotter weather.




.




..






Here have a go at my log file for reference.
This is the new Mobil 1 0W40 API-SP version. I just replaced the engine oil and did the test after. So virgin oil, zero KM.

For me most important is oil pressure when engine oil is 203F at 95C or higher, while I am stuck at traffic snail creeping and coolant hits 100C / 212F and
in gear, as RPM will be down to 550RPM on brake HOLD. HVAC surely ON and loading the engine.
Here my cooling system is actually in mild deficit for ambient temp of 30C / 86F and higher if zero air velocity to the car radiator and at this RPM my coolant pump is NOT good enough.

Anything above 900 RPM is good for me, as the coolant mechanical pump is decent flow rate by then.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I dropped the oil channel plug (screw) while removing it to install the gauge adapter. I have no flippin' idea where it went. Fortunately I had another 12mmx1.5 plug that I installed. Still, I hate not accounting for all parts. I jacked the car up (and used jack stands) to remove the plastic splash panels, hoping the plug would drop out. But, NO!

The only place I really couldn't get to is to look inside the crank pulley. But since I heard it hit the plastic panel when it dropped, it is doubtful that it bounced into the pulley which is millimeters away from the intercooler.

Here's a pic of the gauge adapter and IC located right in front of the pulley. The crank pulley is located approximately in the center of the IC.

S-Prihadi

..
Try these 4 locations, I once lost a mini torx screw at location 4th.... took me ages to find hahahaah.
.



.



.


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.


I hope u have boroscope

Happy mini bolt hunting.....

kevm14

Here I am. Been busy. But, I put full insurance back on my E63 today, so you know what that means. Hasn't run since late Dec. I tried to catch up on the thread; there has been a flurry of activity.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Who are you?

CaliBenzDriver

Great to have you back ! Many thanks for the OP Summary
We've made some progress to extend MOD1 goodness all the way to near idle. This disable the spongy slow poke LAG caused by interactions between VVT and poor fuel control via ECU. The opposite turns the ECU/TCU into a perfect hummingbird launching from 900.RPM. No tricks, only oil JR calls voodoo - I think there's a bit of that we're closing on.

We see different results between NA vs TT... how could we not
The targets are multiple as described in last 100 posts of MOD2.1.
You will get faster oil warming while your mixtures will get stronger with matching hard gas pedal.

We are tweaking the engine mechanical VVT to get awesome gas metering by HPFP + ECU.
ENJOY journey on year 2024.


> MOD Related Questions:
What kind of oil condition do you have:
oil grade in use: 0w40 or 4w40 ?
How many Miles ago oil change?
What color is your oil: amber/black?
How old are your chain tensioners??
How many Miles MOD1 ??

Meet MOD2.1:
this is done with small measured 100ml shots of compatible group III - Mob1:15w50

CaliBenzDriver

MS: we are going to cool your hot-rods while moving with speed. Not arrive steaming hot at idle crawl.
Nothing transfers at idle besides 200PSI refrigerant and 2500PSI gasoline.
Oil is on standby pressure, ready to time HPFP with ECU.

We can change only a couple things so that ECU don't get freaked out by STEPS so we give it RAMPS. Sounds easy right... let's test.

I have no doubt we can find out the differences from idle to turbine boosted intake. The calculations based on MAP are very touchy on 276-NA. Stock 3.5NA has an elephant pick-up either on 1st or 2nd gear and TT engine have lag ie. the same curse!

JR has both vehicles for comparison.
I think it's important for us to travel the steps to understand the new settings. Don't jump train the engine to clean Lambda/cylinders, seal rings, lube HPFP under the watchful eye of Bosch injection software.
Different cars are on different update releases. MOD2.1 brings a gamut of positive changes mostly getting things under control. Another way of saying your mileage may vary.

THANK you everday for your brilliant understanding & instrumentation + scuba diving into M276 depth on WIS.


My thank you >>>> your cooled engine on amber oil with FRIGID A/C downtown JAKARTA - BALI : nice luxury ?

kevm14

Thanks. Took it for a drive, added Techron and fresh Shell 93. It started up like I just shut it off, which is always good. I think I need to adapt the MCT (no change from last year, I noted this last year after ECU s/w update). That crisp neutral rev snap is still as good as when I first unplugged.

I'll answer your oil questions.

oil grade in use: Liquimoly MolyGen 5W-40
How many Miles ago oil change? Oil changed 1 year ago. Currently have 4,512 miles on the oil BUT I had to add 1L late last season.
What color is your oil: I will check on a white paper towel but I want to say more amber than black
How old are your chain tensioners?? Original. By engine serial number, I have the updated check valve but would require the updated tensioners per WIS bulletin. I am sure this is a good idea but it's a bit involved so not sure when I will get to it.
How many Miles MOD1 ?? Approx 900 miles since unplugging. I must have the least miles after unplugging out of the entire thread.

I am going to do a Blackstone at some point. Either at my oil change or earlier.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

@S-Prihadi thanks for the pics. I checked but still cannot find it. Your #4 is exposed, but mine has a plastic cover over it.

CaliBenzDriver

Your current oil is on the tail end of MOD2 viscosity life span.
​​​​​Your ECU is going to roll back your engine clock.

Based on your inputs regarding oil color I would use
if black 2.5 or 3x 100ml
if amber 2x 100ml or 4x 50ml

Small steps are better,
best to come up gradually.

The viscosity boost is going to help offset old tensioner leakage.
Expect ECU/TCU to be improving after 500MI.

Oil quicker warm-up and perfect cooling is right away given what Tstat heat control.
Your engine may display a calculated Oil temps to make up for a true sensor.

+++++ current oil ok:
pull your oil sample now
show me color pic

+++++
ECU/TCU un-coordinated shifts :
The tranny work is as important as that of motor.
The better ECU runs the tim8ngs below 2500.RPM, the less confused tranny will act with matching low gears. Stock 1-2-3 useage is ok until you realize what TCU can do with improved ECU.
To some extent until hardware retransmits bottleneck necessary handshake. It's poor straight from factory and easy to fix.


HANG-ON to our pistons!!
The new MB electrics are here with amazing products :
Highest depreciation disposable car bargains around the corner

kevm14

I have a real temp sensor. Also, I've shown before that this mod didn't really help my oil warm up faster. Others have said that has been their experience. Still others have said they witness much faster warmups. Either we all don't have the same oil T-stat design (there COULD be differences with the S-model, as well as model year), or our oil T-stats are in various stages of function as they age. I'm not pulling my timing cover to find out so it is what it is.



MCT is a unique thing.

CaliBenzDriver

Well you have a unique position being at the end of oil life, it's burned but still dry-lubing well as it is designed to do.

Your oil resets you to a MOD1 900Mi condition.

That's why your oil does not get circulated over pistons to pick 'n transfer heat at normal driving RPM.

Your chance is to have old oil to experiment viscosity boost shots before renewal.
Considering oil condition matches a total of 2 to 400ml.

Fresh 5w40 oil needs less boosting to keep MOD2.1 spraying.

Burned oil is straight evidence of extreme piston heat. That's also pairs with unsealed rings ie. high blow-by.

The only oil that may not need bosted viscosity is the AMSOIL - If it doesn't burn that means its spraying better than cost effective oils. I don't know that AMSOIL has the special "MB approved" additive package.

Oil thermostat will be though functional until proven otherwise. At least it's not ECU managed like in the coolant circuit.

Experimenting MOD2.1 viscosity boost now will provide an option to prevent burning your next oil change.

Keep notes of mileage and **** amounts. Go easy not to overdose viscosity.

When heat is removed at normal driving RPM, once the engine goes into idle traffic the heat is already moved to front radiator.

The engine core is temperature regulated to prevent extreme heat soaks.

Would it be nice to see A GRAPH OF OIL PRESSURE VS. RPM. Then we can match spray pressure with RPM. and come up with fine boost of 50ml measures.
What RPM do you want to spray 1500... 1700 given new vs. old oil.


> SPECIAL MCT:
I bet if ECU matches shaft speed, tranny shifts can become seamless. I don't know MCT besides delayed clutch.


Sounds simple because it is. Oil moves heat

kevm14

I did a reset and adaptation of the wet clutch in my driveway with Xentry yesterday. Had I known it would be that easy I would have done it earlier. Seems to drive nice, though the main issue I had with it was on a cold start. It will have to continue learning across all driving conditions but it already seems more responsive than it did before I did the adaptation.

It resets the adaptations and as long as the transmission temp is within a range, it will sit there in drive against the brake and learn. Xentry says once you are in the procedure, it only takes like 4 minutes. These are the values right before the reset and relearn. I can't figure out how to check the values without resetting but I didn't look that long.

Lotty

Have a nice week @ll


1830km unplugged SHU 5w40

Helllllooooo

BDC90

Is this method better/ different than the gas pedal method? Any point in Me doing it after going from 0w-40 to 5W-40 200 miles ago?

CaliBenzDriver

That's a nice oil color from a spraying young oil on MOD2.0.

> Around the corner:
When enough viscosity will be degraded, driving RPM spraying will climb higher above where we need it.
That's when oil will get burned at normal RPM.

This happens rapidly through vicious-cycle:

• more heat
• less viscosity
• less spraying
• more heat

What if you could replenish lost viscosity to keep spraying pistons at normal RPM ???
That's MOD2.1: "boosted 5w40".


> Target is VVT work:
It's not that we want temperature regulated engine... we want ECU to position VVT reliably with stable oil viscosity.

Without that controlled equilibrium, the ECU/TCU deliver unreliable performance, be it lag or a whole gamut of weird shift conditions.

Everyone enjoys fresh TCU "adaptations". They are great with stable conditions. TCU does not work well with moving targets.

It's actually the ECU that keeps the TCU from being stellar. Once the ECU driving RPM range is predictable the TCU can match targets much like a CVT !!


-- The low RPM are important because all the computations are continuous up to WOT *.*

-- That's a whole lot of good from a $5 shot of oil. Don't overdose boost medication.


+++ This oil would benefit from 150ml now before it turns. This will keep oil from runaway temps.

Why 150ml ? It's close to 100ml and 200ml
50 to 100ml would likely be enough now and 50 more is preventive for hard work.
Use in shots of 50ml, it will be more seemless on VVT positioning.

Don't loose track of your precise shots totals and Miles.
Eventually you'll climb up to 4 or 500ml according to oil to compensate for viscosity loss.
Eventually also we'll find some oil stocks are short lived and some other are more robust.


viscosity theoretical chart

All the numbers are there but the guidance to apply the science is missing ...

Once you understand why our cars engine/tranny are highly sensitive to engine oil viscosity... you got it!