spkml320

Would anyone have the proper Mercedes PDF for replacing the plate that the rear parking brake shoes attach to and a PDF of the proper assembly procedure for the parking brake shoes, adjuster wheel, and cable operated expander. I will go to my local dealer tomorrow in hopes that the "mounting plate" is available as a separate part from the entire spindle assembly. if not, this could get real interesting.

I see that the adjustment procedure was provided in another post by "Major"

My VIN is 4JGBB86E17A218372
2007 ML350) 4MATIC

Maj. Dundee

Did you make those holes in the backing plate?

spkml320

Maj. Dundee

To get the backing plate off you must remove the hub and doing so usually destroys the bearing.

Here are the instructions for the hub and the rear parking shoes.

spkml320

Thank you very much for the detailed information. I've got a little more homework to do before beginning, but your information provides me with everything I need to perform a professional, properly done repair. If it isn't too much trouble, could you please provide me with the socket size for the nut securing the hub onto the splined half shaft. I believe that it is 36mm, but your confirmation would certainly help. I was certain that I sent you a thank you message yesterday, but i must have done something wrong.

texterted

You could always use some penny washers, instead of all the expense and effort!

Use thin ones that let you beat a dish shape into their centres (if the pins are too short with them).

Maj. Dundee

Yes it is 36mm.

Please understand that to remove the backing plate you will have to remove the hug/flange and I doubt that you have the equipment to do it.

So, I strongly suggest that you remove the wheel carrier/knuckle and take it to an automotive machine shop and have then remove and install the backing plate along with the bearing and clip. Order the parts before you disassemble anything. Hopefully only one side is damaged.

spkml320

Maj. Dundee,

The information that you provided to me is invaluable. In the first line of the 1st of 5 PDF attachments, it indicates as the 1st step to remove wheel carrier.
The reference for my Model 164 is AR35.20-P-0115GZ. Is there any way that you could send that to me. It would be most appreciated, especially since there is a loaded spring. I seem to be in good shape, but I will only proceed if I can proceed safely.

Thank you

spkml320

I hadn't seen the most recent attachment. You have already supplied me with the information to remove the steering knuckle ( rear wheel carrier). And yes, I'm going to follow your recommendations exactly. Once it is off the car, it is going directly to the automotive machine shop. I actually wanted to pay a mechanic to do everything, but he's booking out 2 weeks and I unfortunately don't have that time.

Thank you for everything.

spkml320

Maj. Dundee,
Another problem presented itself after working on the rear. The left rear shock began leaking after the car was put down. It was heavily rusted and I disturbed the rust while cleaning it up. So, do you have a PDF for rear shock replacement that includes the torque values for both upper mount nuts and the single bottom bolt? If you do and could send it to me, I'd really appreciate it. One more unrelated thing: I am flushing the cooling system on this same care. Owner's manual states 10 quart capacity. Workshop-manuals states 6.5l fro 164 with M272 engine. I've drained, filled with distilled water, and re-drained 3 times so far, with each successive drain getting lighter. It is almost clear now and each drain has measured only about 7 quarts. If I could locate the block drains, then I wouldn't be concerned, but they seem to be eluding me. Do you know the cooling capacity of my engine? I'm outside of Boston and it's getting cold again this week so I don't want to get the concentration wrong. (I know that this isn't the place to ask information on a different subject, but I wanted to contact you directly and couldn't figure out how)

Thank you again,

Steven

Maj. Dundee

I provided the info. in your other thread.

spkml320

Hooray!

I am in the middle of doing all new brakes on my 2008 ML350, this thread was helpful as the videos brush right over the details of the rear parking brake shoes / disc removal. I yanked my disk off and pulled the small screw/springs out of the rusty metal shields. I was able to bend back in the metal "rips" and seems like they are staying in place but bummed out that next time I have to pull the bearings to replace the shields. What a dumb design! Looks like the bolts are right there and they could have made the shield come off over the bearing... German engineering! lol.

Maj. Dundee, do you have the PDFs for the front brake and rear brake pads, mostly to get the torque settings. I literally had to put a 3' pipe and buy an impact 6 sided socket to pull the two caliper bolts off the rear. I was fearful they would break or the pipe would break! But I was able to get them both off and only want to put back on with specified torques and anti-seize where applicable. Is there a repository for all those PDFs in one place or are they not officially here? Thanks.

Maj. Dundee

Here are the instructions for both the front and rear.

Hooray!

Thanks, those are super helpful to avoid putting too much torque on everything like some garages do, crank those bolts in! You may have a few others that could help:

BRAKE BLEEDING: is there a MB instruction for this, I have only seen DIY instructions
HYD DIAGRAM: the hydraulic line feeding my drivers side rear brake has a leak somewhere under the plastic panel just in front of the rear wheel opening. I noticed a soft pedal on my last drive and then when I moved the car into position to work on the brakes, there was a puddle on the driveway and I was unable to remove the car from P as depressing the brake did not register so I am stuck where I am until I fix the leak. Working on rear brakes now, figure do both, fix line, bleed rear then do the fronts.

Thanks, surprised me, first ever car with a hydraulic brake line failure...

Maj. Dundee

Here it is.